Prime
Raisin Walnut, Pretzel, White, Baguette, Salted Butter
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Strawberry Rhubarb Jam, Marcona Almonds, Shaved Raw Almonds
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2008
Prime Onion Soup – Gruyere & Emmentaler
Market Tomatoes – Burrata Cheese, Arugula, Balsamic Vinegar, Basil
Clouds Rest 2012 Forbidden Sauvignon Blanc
Gratin Dauphinois – Comte Cheese
Glazed Market Mushrooms
Parmesan-Crusted Organic Chicken – Artichokes & Lemon Butter
18-oz Dry Aged Bone-In Rib Eye
Sauces – Soy Rice Wine, Bearnaise, Peppercorn
Walt 2012 Pinot Noir Blue Jay Anderson Valley / Barbieri Syrah 2011 Colson Canyon Vineyard
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake – Vanilla Ice Cream
Coconut Souffle – White Chocolate Feuilletine & Dark Chocolate Sorbet
Yuzu Pudding Cake – Toasted Almond Sorbet
Prime Cinnamon Bread Pudding – Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Golden Delicious Apples
Double Espresso on Ice
Soon to renovate the outdoor patio, but carrying over a room thought to be one of the most gorgeous in the world, PRIME Steakhouse at Bellagio had long been on a list of fine dining experiences yet to be enjoyed in Las Vegas, an admitted mistake and given the quality of the cuisine, service, and setting, perhaps even a sin.
Toqued by Rob Moore, whose brief departure to open JG Steakhouse at Aria has seen it too grow into a place held in high regard, it was at a two-top big enough for four that my friend and I were seated, the Bellagio water show visible through large windows to the right while the draped dining room decorated in fine art soon filled to capacity at our left.
Served by a team of at least six, Sommelier John Burke entertaining us with stories from Steve Wynn’s reign as well as those of bottles sold in excess of $60K, it was in a four course meal that two-hours was spent talking, the ingredient sourcing, portions, and preparations all justifying prices that may turn many diners away.
Far more classical than Carnevino or Ramsay and certainly more elegant than Delmonico or CUT, the evening began with bubbles alongside a basket of bread and making quick work of salty pretzel batons as well as a nutty raisin loaf it would not be long before a starter of seared foie gras was presented, the acidic sauce of rhubarb perhaps the most interesting steakhouse pairing seen to this moment while shaved almonds worked wonders to meld flavors of fruit to the unctuous liver of duck.
Told that soups and salads at PRIME are far more fanciful that the typical broth or wedge, round two consisted of heirloom tomatoes dressed in milky burrata atop vinegar splashed arugula plus a truly inspired bowl of French Onion, the blend of cheeses lightly toasted atop a crispy brioche float while the potage beneath was beefy enough to be noticed, though the bulk of the flavor came from the caramelized namesake ingredient itself.
No doubt a place with more than just beef to offer, though the options for steaks are plentiful without going overboard on information about sourcing from several different farms, it was in the 18oz Dry Aged Bone-In Rib Eye cooked medium rare that $71 was invested, the quality of the product allowed to show for itself while the menu’s cheapest protein shined even more brightly, the pounded half-chicken fried textbook crisp beneath a Parmesan crust as sides and sauces each proved every bit as compelling, the Soy Rice Wine and Comte Potatoes each well deserving of their server-suggested clout.
Unable to resist desserts, the menu’s only service error occurring when Jean-Georges’ signature molten cake was served in place of the souffle selection of the trio, suffice it to say that as good as each item was there is no doubt that those with an eye for the dramatic will be wowed by cinnamon bread pudding, the tableside saucing seeing a dome of cocoa melted into the custard soaked base as notes sweet, spiced, and salty all dance in the mouth.
FOUR STARS: Trending a bit more pricey than other Steakhouses on the Strip, and somewhat limited by offering only two breeds of beef with fish and seafood not really venturing too far outside the box, PRIME is undoubtedly a place worth visiting for those looking for a ‘fine dining steakhouse,’ particularly those averse to loud music or looking for a more romantic night out.
RECOMMENDED: Parmesan Chicken, Prime Cinnamon Bread Pudding, Gratin Dauphinois, Prime Onion Soup.
AVOID: The Molten Chocolate Cake was overcooked (and unordered) with the center already set while the Rib Eye was nothing a good grill man couldn’t have done with a good piece of beef.
TIP: Soon to be redoing the outdoor patio and bar to offer better fountain views and a more casual experience for solo diners, those interested in renderings are encouraged to visit the bottom of the stairs between Picasso and PRIME.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.bellagio.com/restaurants/prime-steakhouse.aspx
