Le Cirque
Rice Cracker with Hamachi, Hearts of Palm, Baby Radishes, Avocado, Tangerine, Honey Citrus Vinaigrette
Le Crabe – Blue Crab Shell, Green Apple, Russian Osetra Caviar, Salmon Roe, Dungeness Crab
Le Foie Gras – Sauteed Foie Gras, Sweet George Peaches, Corisca Herbs
Le Saint Pierre – John Dory, Candied Rhubarb, Warm Eggplant Salad, Eggplant Brulee, Saffron Sauce with Coriander
Le Caille – Gold Crusted Quail, Farci au Foie Gras and Truffles, Barley Corn Risotto, Black Truffle Pan Jus, Parmesan Cheese
Le Pre-Dessert – Watermelon Granita, Pickled Cucumber Mousse
Le Gateau au Fromage Mascarpone – Mascarpone Cheese and Beet Red Velvet Cake, Verjus Grapes. Candied Beets, Balsamic Ice Cream
Mignardises
Twice visited already under the toque of 28 year old Wilfried Bergerhausen and undoubtedly the first Las Vegas restaurant to incite a ‘wow’ way back in 2008, it was after being unequivocally being made to feel unwelcome at Picasso by Chef Julien Serrano that I sat down at the semi-circular bar at Le Cirque, GM Ivo Angelov making an already memorable night even better by sending out six courses from the restaurant’s Menu Prestige, each one entirely delicious with plating equally deserving of applause.
Not particularly hungry, a four-course feast at PRIME just an hour in the past, it was largely a matter of an ‘offer too good to refuse’ and Ivo’s genuine hospitality that saw myself and a friend delve into tiny rice crackers served atop a pure glass log, the flavors of Yellowtail finding subtle nuance from tangerines and vinaigrette while the addition of hearts of palm and radish kept sweeter notes in check.
Unsure of what would roll out from the kitchen as the newly launched menu was as yet unseen, round two featured the sort of decadence formerly reserved for the refined environs of Joel Robuchon with freshly picked Dungeness proving perfect and sweet beneath a briny blanket of Osetra Caviar and lightly sweetened apple gelee.
Admitting an affinity for foie gras, a nicely seared slice just enjoyed with rhubarb at the steakhouse a floor beneath, plate three proved every bit as exquisite with Bergerhausen opting to saute the liver before topping it in supple Georgia peaches and fresh herbs from Corsica, the flavors all melding beneath a lightly acidic stone fruit gastrique.
At this point becoming ever more convinced that Wilfried may be the best young Chef in Las Vegas while Ivo’s conversation about years serving some of Sin City’s most well-heeled elite were even more interesting than most would likely chance to guess, it was to St. Pierre that my now-party-of-one was treated and with crispy scales adherent to supple flesh the flavors on the plate were even more inspired than the textures, a bright sauce of coriander marvelous alongside rhubarb cooked in Grenadine with petite torched eggplant coming across surprisingly sweet.
Not assuming anything more decadent than the crab could be served it was with the final savory of the evening that the kitchen decided to redefine going ‘over the top,’ and with a corn, barley, and risotto base rich with butter a breast of quail stuffed with truffles and duck liver was presented, the literal gold gilding no doubt an unnecessary accoutrement but one that here seemed quite apropos.
Left to my choice of desserts, a whole new lineup aside from the classic crème brulee and pair of seasonal souffles, the meal wrapped with a summertime special placing watermelon beneath cucumber and transitioning to something a bit more ‘rich’ one should not be fooled by the thick white layer atop the moist oxblood base as each bite was, in reality, exceedingly light with the candied beets offering just a touch of texture while the balsamic ice cream played brilliantly off of the cocoa tones and residual sweetness of grapes.
FIVE STARS: Having dined at Guy Savoy just one day prior, and finding the food there delicious while the room and service were just a bit to serious to be fun, dining at the bar in Le Cirque was a perfect study of contrasts – the food every bit as excellent while the experience itself left me planning a very prompt return.
RECOMMENDED: Le Caille, Le Crabe, Le Gateau au Fromage Mascarpone.
AVOID: Eating a 4-course meal beforehand.
TIP: The new Menu Prestige runs $350 and diners should allow 3-hours to enjoy.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.bellagio.com/restaurants/le-cirque.aspx
