Chef Flemming’s Bake Shop
Cinnamon Roll
Seven Little Sisters
Apple Frangipane Tart
Walnut Brownie
Blueberry Crumb Cake
Pecan Pie
A staple of Water Street years before artisan baking became a ‘thing’ in Las Vegas, let alone Henderson, Chef Flemming’s Bakeshop has grown its reputation largely on the legs of locals yet in a city where flashy Strip-based celebrity Chefs continue to hog headlines the old-world craftsmanship of Chef Flemming Pedersen still seems underrated, a recent Saturday visit continuing to show a tireless dedication to timeless technique and friendly customer service.
Danish by birth, but essentially native to Southern Nevada after twenty-plus years including more than fifteen leading the pastry department at Downtown’s Golden Nugget, a quick perusal of Chef Flemming’s work speaks of time-honored Scandinavian recipes and with over fifty items in rotation each and every day the space itself is as enticing as the products, a veritable step back in time compared to the modernity of recent Henderson openings with cozy chairs, wood tables, plus all sorts of tchotchkes and signs.
A bit offputting in its soundtrack, the R&B from a bookshelf boombox not befitting any aspect of the concept or space, the choice of whether to dine-in or opt for items to be boxed largely comes down to diner preference and timing, a self-selected six-pack taking into account some suggestions from a middle-aged clerk who possessed great knowledge of ingredients as well as technique plus a bright smile on her face.
Disappointed that, for the second time, bread pudding was not ready for a 7:05am arrival, it was nonetheless that $17 was exchanged for a box plus a plate and sitting down in the cozy cafe first bites of a pastry entitled ‘Seven Little Sisters’ proved exceedingly interesting as sweet cinnamon bread encircled a core of cream cheese, pecans and raisins, the follow-up cinnamon roll also well crafted, though perhaps a bit ‘pedestrian’ when compared to such a complex taste.
Planning to take the rest for later, but opting to open the box in favor of pictures right away, it was perhaps in folly that I assumed I’d be able to resist tasting items as the photo shoot progressed and within one bite of the petite Pecan Pie I knew any thoughts of restraint were hopeless, the all-butter crust and brown sugar filling offering a great contrast to the toasted nuts while the Apple Tart was equally impressive with naturally flavored fruit resting on a smooth bed of almond.
Managing to contain myself and save the rest for later it was just past noon that the final two treats were enjoyed and although the brownie was par for the course when compared to others in The Valley a round crumb cake spoke far more loudly to my culinary inklings, the loose crumb unfathomably light considering the butter in each forkful with the whole thing eating like a streusel-strewn muffin top rife with plump blueberries.
FOUR STARS: At one time the only place for great pastries in Henderson but recently seeing strong competition from the likes of Mothership, CRAFTkitchen and Kitchen Table Chef Flemming’s continues to be a standard bearer for old-world European quality with a setting unlike anything else in the area.
RECOMMENDED: Seven Little Sisters, Pecan Pie, Blueberry Crumb Cake.
AVOID: The Brownie was dull and there are better cinnamon rolls to be found.
TIP: Arriving too early…or too late…apparently affects availability of some items. Those interested in specifics may be best to call in advance.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://chefflemmings.com
