Broken Spanish
Patron Saint – Old Grand Dad 100 Bourbon, Ancho Teyes, Lemon, Tamarind, Egg White, Bitters
Heirloom Corn Tortillas
Rebanada – Pan Dulce, Foie Gras Butter, Piloncillo
Crudo – Diver Scallop, Apple, Cucumber, Serrano
Queso Fundido – Bacalao, Quesillo, Roasted Tomato
Tostada – Marina di Chiogga, Cauliflower Escabeche, Pomegranate, Chile Cascabel
Tamale – Spinach, Sunchoke, Pawlet, Chile Ancho, Salsa de Fruta
Tamale – Lamb Neck, King Oyster Mushroom, Queso Oaxaca
Chochoyotes – Masa Dumplings, Potato, Green Garlic, Pasilla
Rabbit – Nopales, Bacon, Cherry Tomato, Chipotle
Camote – Sweet Potato, Pig Tail, Trompa, Chile de Arbol, Verjus
Quesadilla – Oxtail, Plantain, Habanero, Salsa Quemada
Pulpo – Alberjones, Chorizo, Crema
Beet Pibil – Yellow Beet, Achiote, Pickled Onion, Bitter Greens
Red Snapper – Leek, Green Clamato, Clams, Avocado
Duck – Sesame, Mole, Persimmon
Chicharron – Elephant Garlic Mojo, Radish Sprout, Pickled Herbs
Cabeza – Lamb’s Head, Pickled Onion, Cabbage
Frijoles – Heirloom Ayocote Beans, Tomato, Cilantro
Empanada – Honey Crisp Apple, Requeson, Sherry Vanilla Ice Cream, Crema Mousse
Abuelita Hot Chocolate – Ancho Chocolate Cake, Alpaco Ganache, Candied Cocoa Nib, Milk Ice Cream, Abuelita Broth
Arroz Con Leche – Arborio Rice, Roasted Pear, Huckleberry Jam, Warm Tres Leches, Canela
Mil Hojas – Piloncillo Puff Pastry, Meyer Lemon Curd, Grapefruit Mousse, Lemon Balm
Chile Mango – Mango Panna Cotta, Habanero Caramel, Passion Fruit Curd, Cayenne Meringue
Told by a respected local Chef that Broken Spanish was perhaps the most interesting spot for upscale Mexican dining in all of Southern California while friends cited experiences that ranged from “there are some good plates” to generally underwhelmed it was late Sunday evening that I entered the bustling DTLA restaurant for what would, in fact, turn out to be a nearly three hour degustation of over 2/3 the menu without a single plate that proved less than delicious and well composed.
Owned and operated by Ray Garcia, a youthful Chef whose accolades include a 2015 Chef of the Year nod, it was just after 8:30 that four of us were seated at a long table amidst the noisy confines and perusing a well-culled enu while sipping cocktails it was not long before decisions were made…and subsequently tossed out the window as the kitchen sent out almost twice as much as ordered in a truly audacious display of generosity.
Still nursing a foamy drink of Bourbon and bitters, the warm Heirloom Corn Tortillas signaling the first of several courses to come, dinner began with toasted sweet bread topped in a thick smear of duck liver and refreshing the palate with a spicy bite of raw scallop tempered by apple it was onward to spice that the meal lunged forward, a pronounced earthiness found below smoky heat on a crisp Tostata while the Queso Fundido saw the brine of salt cod boldly utilized to punctuate creamy cheese and roasted tomatoes.
Told that Chef Garcia’s Tamales are not to be missed but only ordering the supple Lamb Neck version with fibrous mushrooms it was with good fortune that Ray opted to send out his vegetarian option topped with bright and fruity salsa as it was amongst the most memorable bites of the meal, a bold contrast to the richness of the lamb while equally opposite to the spicy rabbit cooked tender in a stew presented tableside and tender corn dumplings called “Chochoyotes” that ate like gnocchi in an a broth that reminisced the flavors of Spring.
Not as sold on Octopus as some, Broken Spanish’s version a little overcooked at the end of the tentacle while thicker cuts tasted great with spicy sausage and cream, better bites from round three were found in the Quesadilla sandwiching shredded Oxtail with Plantains while the Beet Pibil offered needed acid to cleanse the palate before digging into the offal-topped Sweet Potato that saw eyes wide and jaws on the table, the undisputed “best” plate in a meal where several others challenged largely as the result of a sweet/savory balance one rarely associates with off-cuts of meat.
At this point feeling the effects of quite a bit of food it with even more to go it was to a mixture of delight and shock that the kitchen sent forth every entree on the menu and although the crispy-skinned fish as well as the half Lamb’s head were undoubtedly visual showstoppers, the best flavors were found in the rich duck beneath aromatic mole piqued up by persimmons and the deep-fried porchetta that offers melt-in-the-mouth flesh beneath shattering skin in a portion large enough to feed a family of four.
Not to let the savory half of the kitchen outshine his team in the department of sweets it was perhaps a bit of “be careful what you wish for” that saw Luis Ayala and company offer up all five of their creations to send us off into the night, and although some may say that the use of herbs and vegetables in dessert has become cliché the team at Broken Spanish never seems to let novelty compromise flavor in any of their creations, the fruited rice pudding and citrus Napoleon particularly compelling while both the panna cotta and chocolate cake cup dialed up the spice profile carefully without drifting astray.
