Andre’s Bistro & Bar
Creamsicle – Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Cream
Blackberry Rickey – Organic Blackberry Syrup, Mint, Lime Juice, Soda Water
Pretty G&T – Hayman’s Old Tom Gin, Tonic Syrup, Soda Water, Hibiscus
French Baguette – Salted Butter
Charcuterie Board – House Mustard, Onions and Cornichons, Speck, Pork Rillette, Pork and Pistachio Pate, Mission Figs, Tomato Jam
Lyonnaise Salad – Frisee, Smoked Lardons, Poached Egg, Warm Sherry Vinaigrette
Roasted Vegetable Terrine – Goat Cheese, Parsley Oil, Black Olive Vinaigrette
Crispy Calamari – Spicy Salt & Pepper, Sweet Thai Chili Sauce
Seared Foie Gras – Crème Anglaise, Candied Almonds, Cinnamon Apples, Port
Duck Fat Garlic Fries – Ketchup
Golden Trout Amandine – Green Beans, Beurre Noisette
Roasted Chicken Breast – Mushrooms, Bacon, Pearl Onions, Fingerling Potatoes, Natural Chicken Jus
Artisanal Sausages – Spicy Lamb, Pork-Garlic, Duck, Warm Potato Salad with Smoked Lardons
Braised Lamb Shank – Orzo Pasta, Tomato Concasse, Lamb Jus
Grand Marnier Souffle – Crème Anglaise
Saturday Sundae – Caramel, Fudge, Strawberries, Vanilla Ice Cream, Peanuts, Whipped Cream, Cherry
Apple Tart Tatin – Vanilla Ice Cream
Chocolate Pot de Crème – Cookie Tuille, Sweet Cream
Classic Milkshake – Strawberry, Malt
Lemon Tart – Raspberries
Root Beer Float – Vanilla Ice Cream
Chocolate Walnut Gateau – Crème Anglaise
Crème Brulee – Seasonal Berries
Double Espresso – Ice
Shuttering as a result of The Strip’s incessant need to recreate, the kitchen that has given rise to some of Las Vegas’ most skilled Chefs soon to be part of a food fantasy-land from New York, it was as a silver lining that Andre Rochat and his team led by Joe Marsco and Mark Purdy promised a reinvention of their own, Andre’s Bistro & Bar debuting on January 14th, instantly upgrading the Southwest Community’s dining scene.
Installing itself in the former DW Bistro, the bones still recognizable though the décor has changed extensively from the beautiful bar out to a dining-space decorated in wood, statues of Chickens and artifacts brought to remember the past, patrons are greeted at a small podium by smiling faces as music plays loudly, the days of The Rat Pack unfortunately lost in favor of everything from Lynyrd Skynyrd to Rihanna and Calvin Harris.
Seeing several familiar faces in the kitchen, Chef Rochat working the line right next to Purdy, Marty Red DeLeon Lopez and Jon VanHusen while Tammy Alana continues to head-up Pastry, the menu at Andre’s Bistro & Bar cuts a wide swath through French classics as well as some more American ideas including everything from a Burger or Root Beer Float to spicy Calamari.
Dining as a party of three, another prominent local restaurateur taking a moment away from his growing empire to see what newly launched Stacked Hospitality has created, it was with drinks from a list ranging Hi to “No-Proof” that the night got underway, both the Creamsicle and Blackberry Rickey showing a keen-eye towards balance without Booze while a Pretty G&T packed quite a punch for something so smooth alongside two other iterations titled “Pure” and “Piney.”
Far more wallet-friendly than its former self, Appetizers ranging $10-18 while Entrees top-out under $30 for a ten-ounce New York Strip, it was in four courses that an a la carte order was served by a team led by Mr. Marsco and Assistant General Manager Marc Boutiron, the pace leisurely but appropriate with presentations already quite good for a place opened so recently.
Happily tearing into a warm Baguette with good Butter, a standard-bearer rivaling Bardot for the city’s best, it was alongside a tray of housemade Mustard and Pickles that the nightly Charcuterie Board arrived featuring Speck, Rillette and a chunky Pate plus Figs and Tomato Jam, each item just as good as what is found in Europe, as too was the classic Lyonnaise Salad and a vibrant Vegetable Terrine topped in Goat Cheese, Parsley Oil and bright Vinaigrette.
No doubt ordering an unlikely pair to follow, the Salt & Pepper Squid with Jalapenos and Chef Lopez’s Thai Chili Sauce tasty albeit a bit out of place, the Chef’s-Selection Foie Gras took a decidedly “Andre’s” spin by way of Crème Anglaise, Candied Almonds, Port and stewed Apples – the price of $18 an absolute steal considering both the portion and the quality.
Passing on a Choucroute Plat du Jour, though housemade Sausage was prominently featured in a substantial dish from which all three Encased Meats burst with flavor around warm Potato Salad, suffice it to say that the roasted Chicken is a surprise stunner with crisp skin and pronounced juiciness, the Lamb Shank perfectly cooked and portioned generously, though in need of a bit of finishing Salt to accentuate the Meat’s natural flavor.
Enjoying entrees with a side of fresh-cut Potatoes fried in Duck Fat with a touch of Garlic, the filet of Trout sent out gratis almost as good as Rochat’s famous Dover Sole alongside Green Beans and Hazelnut Butter, it was with a Double Espresso in hand that the table was prepared for a parade of sweets, Chef Alana’s Soufflé and Crème Brulee identical to those previously served on Las Vegas Boulevard at a fraction of the price.
Happily embracing both the Bistro and Bar concept, a classic Tart Tatin with perfect edges and a lot of Butter pacing step-for-step with a Soda Fountain Sundae or Strawberry Malt with three straws, more great bites were found in the zippy Lemon Tart while the Pot de Crème should satisfy even the most ardent Chocoholic, though the Chocolate Walnut Gateau undoubtedly steals the show with a complex interplay of Ganache and roasted Nuts folded in golden Pastry.
FOUR STARS: In many ways a departure from the past, though at the same time a sort of return to the technique-based cooking that makes French food great, Andre’s Bistro & Bar is off to a good start at a price-point now unencumbered by inflated Casino pricing, the days past undoubtedly important to Las Vegas’ culinary heritage with the future also appearing quite bright.
RECOMMENDED: Creamsicle, Charcuterie, Vegetable Terrine, Foie Gras, Roasted Chicken Breast, Artisanal Sausages, Apple Tart Tatin, Chocolate Walnut Gateau.
AVOID: The Braised Lamb Shank was underseasoned and although the Calamari is good, it simply feels out of place…as does the music which plays far too loudly at the center of the space.
TIP: Open Daily Monday through Friday, Lunch 11:00am – 3:30pm, Happy Hour 3:30pm – 6:00pm and Dinner 4:30pm – 10:00pm. Weekend Brunch from 10:00am – 3:30pm, Happy Hour 3:30pm – 6:00pm and Dinner 4:30pm – 10:00pm. Reservations available by Opentable with To-Go options listed online.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.