SPQR
Crusty Bread and Olive Oil
True cod baccala, garden radish, ice plant, artichoke mustard, sesame and pike roe
Faraona and summer truffle terrina, raisin, marsala, liver mousse, challah
Squid ink chittara, smoked salmon consommé, black cod, salmon roe
Mushroom fagottini, Brussels sprout, smoked honsmeji, espresso bellavitano
Guinea hen cappelletti, sundried tomato, burrata, cavalo nero and red wine bellavitano
Buckwheat tagliatelle, cider and bacon braised suckling pork, rapini
Ricotta gnudi, garlic braised pork meatballs, fried sage
Blue Bottle French Press
Sicilian pistachio pudding and torta with bing cherry and pistachio rosemary gelato
Farro and Gianduja chocolate “budino di pane,” hazelnut, orange curd, brown butter gelato
Lemon Balm Granita, Salted Caramel Chocolate, Gianduja Chocolate Marshmallow atop Chocolate Hazelnut cookie
With its acronymic name and a Northern California approach to traditional Roman cuisine it would seem that SPQR could get lost amongst the myriad mid-priced Italian restaurants in the Bay Area but with Chef Matt Accarrino at the helm and a newly minted Michelin Star in 2013 I’d heard tell that the restaurant was one not to be missed – a proclamation I not only found to be entirely accurate during my visit to the chef’s counter, but one that came at relative bargain$52 for the nightly tasting menu to which I added a pair of antipasti and a second dessert. A rather small restaurant in the Pacific Heights area with a menu that is far more expansive than one would assume by the size of the space or the kitchen a meal at SPQR is highlighted by the house made pastas and sampling five during the course of the evening I found each to be every bit on par with those at Flour + Water with the Cappelletti and Chittara both memorable for their balance while using smoke and brine or game and acid, respectively, while the other choices proved more rustic and comfortable but equally delicious. With excellent bread served warm proving ample for sopping up sauces while antipasti and desserts both featured some of my very favorite ingredients in elaborate, beautiful presentations there was not a single dish that crossed the counter in my direction that was anything less than delicious and although the menu does appear to change frequently I strongly suggest giving any dessert containing the word ‘pudding’ your full attention because whether creamy and chilled or baked into a cake/budino both of the desserts were masterful explorations of taste, temperature, and texture.
