Empire State South
Puerta Del Sol – Tapatio Reposado Tequila, Bitter Truth Apricot Liquer, Yellow Chartreuse, Citrus, Suze
Alpine Summer – Hayman’s Royal Dock Gin, Dolin Genepi Liquer, Cocchi Rosa, Violet Liquor, Prosecco, Lemon
The H. Bingham – Campo de Encanto Pisco, Fino Sherry, Espirit de June, Green Chartruese
In Jars – Deviled Ham, Trout Mousse, Pimento Cheese and Bacon Marmalade, Boiled Peanut Hummus, Pickles
Cheeses – Buttermilk Crackers, Condor’s Ruin Sheep from Many Fold Farm and Thomasville Tomme from Sweet Grass Dairy, Pickled Blueberry, Peach Butter
Charcuterie – Duck Rillettes, Duck Confit, Sweetbread Terrine, Fried Bologna, Cheddar Beerwurst, Mustards, Pickles
Popping Flan – Muscovado Flan, Oranges, Yuzu Foam, Popping Candy, Celery Sorbet
Luau Treats – Haupia, Coconut Coffee Meringue, Caramel Sauce, Latik, Toasted Hazelnut, Coffee Ice Cream
A Hugh Acheson restaurant under the direction of Chef Ryan Smith, Empire State South nearly fell short of my ‘must-visit’ list while dining in Atlanta, particularly when a very rude hostess at the restaurant refused to seat us in the largely empty space since we’d showed up without a reservation at 5:35pm, but thanks to a far more affable bartender a seat was easily allocated where we could enjoy some drinks and appetizers, the entire visit just over an hour and at least a half dozen four-tops empty throughout our stay. A large restaurant with dining both indoors and out, heavy in wood and slate with unfinished ceilings and a very impressive stock at the bar a quick perusal of the menu immediately suggested cocktails to be in order and with heavy pours and interesting combinations all three choices were excellent, the Bingham particularly complex and the Alpine Summer an excellent refresher. Sticking to the in house charcuterie program and a few interesting cheeses given our interest in desserts and late-night dinner plans the two plates and a large board featured a number of interesting options including truly impressive trout mousse and the restaurant’s signature pimento cheese with bacon marmalade plus terrific pickles and a gamy sweetbread terrine that worked beautifully with the beerwurst on bread while other options like the rillettes, deviled ham, and bologna came off quite pedestrian or worse – the duck sadly bordering on ‘flavorless’ and stringy. Transitioning from savories to sweet and particularly excited given Melanie Durant’s acclaim in publications including Food & Wine it was with some disappointment that the menu only featured two options that had much appeal and with even more discouragement when our selections arrived – the tired pop-rocks infused flan an odd mix of acid and bitter that was thankfully small enough that everyone only needed to endure a bite while the Luau treats was fine, particularly the creamy meringue, but nothing to write home (or win accolades) about.
