Range, Washington DC

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Range

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Roasted Baby Carrot – Hazelnut, Honey, Goat Cheese

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Kimchi Linguini – Uni, Scallop, Nasturtium

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Old Bay Rigati – Lobster Macaroni and Cheese

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Muscovy Duck Rillettes, Fig Jam, Baguette and Potted Foie Gras, Apricot Compote, Brioche

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Iron Skillet Cornbread – Bacon Marmalade, Cheddar Jalapeno Biscuits – Pepper Jelly, Ciabatta – Smoked Cream Cheese and Strawberry Compote, Epi – Ranch Spiced Goat Cheese, Heirloom Tomato Focaccia – Old Bay Butter

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Brussels Sprouts – Fish Sauce, Crispy Shallots

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Anson Mills Stone Ground Grits

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Caramel pot du crème – Pear, Fig, Almond Cake, Chocolate Stout

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Cashew and Grape Donuts – Concord Grape Jam, Toasted Bread Ice Cream

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Smores Rice Crispy Treat

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Berry Almond Tart

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he third restaurant from Chef Bryan Voltaggio and the first to stray from Frederick, Range captured my attention the moment I heard about the concept; a sprawling space within the Chevy Chase Pavilion featuring a modernist approach to regional cuisine utilizing multiple open kitchens each with their own independent focus on breads, fish, vegetables, salumi, and more. Clean in design with light woods, subtle lighting, and large windows looking out onto the mall below it is clear from the moment one enters the dining room that the focus here is on the kitchen and with servers well informed and happy to display their knowledge the surprisingly large menu becomes easier to navigate by asking a few questions, mostly relating to portion sizes, it was not long after seating that our order was placed and food began to arrive, coursed out at our request. Clearly the sort of restaurant where the menu encourages one to order more than logic would dictate necessary and pressed further by the presence of a jars and charcuterie section plus house made breads and spreads it was perhaps the simple consistency of our two hour visit to Range that impressed me the most, each item save for watery and acrid linguini perfectly executed and serving testament to allowing each kitchen to truly focus. From creamy foie gras and lobster laden macaroni and cheese to immaculate produce paired with ingredients to highlight and not hide, then onward to one of the best bread services in the country and a pastry kitchen to match Range may be a bit out of the way for tourists but from what I can tell the space seems quite popular with the suits in Northwest DC and I only wish more restaurants serving this caliber of lunch existed in other cities.

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http://www.voltrange.com

Category(s): Bread Basket, Cornbread, DC, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, Pork, Range, Vacation, Washington

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