Desnudo Tacos
Guacamole – Avocado, Tomato, Lime, Serrano, Onion, Cilantro, Thick Crispy Tortilla
Ceviche – Mango-Lime Scallops, Salsa, Onion, Cilantro, Pineapple
Chivo – Slow Braised Goat, Guajillo Chile, Avocado Leaf, Banana Leaf, Onion, Cilantro, Radish
Carnita – Pork Shoulder Braised in Lime Juice, Avocado, Lime Queso Fresco (With Beans and Rice)
Tinga Poblana – Pork Shoulder, Chorizo, Chipotle, Tomato, Tomatillo, Roasted Garlic, Avocado, Crema / Hongos – Sauteed Mushrooms, Baby Spinach, Ancho Chile, Roasted Garlic Crema, Lime Queso Fresco
Garnering ample praise since opening its doors, Chris Palmeri and Christian Dolias’ “Desnudo Tacos” had been on my ‘to do’ list for weeks and although my first experience was under the less-than-ideal circumstances of already being quite full from prior dining I can say without a doubt that not only are the commendations well deserved, but that tis visit will certainly not be my last. Small in size and well-culled in offerings as nearly every topping, accoutrement, and protein is made in house it was with two friends that I sat down at a long bench amidst the Día de los Muertos décor and ordering lightly with an eye to sharing the meal began simply enough with creamy citrus-meets-spice guacamole and tender, bright ceviche before moving on to a quartet of tacos, the three which I tasted all a study of what high quality ingredients and innovative pairings can do to elevate ‘simple’ street food to new heights. Beginning first with the Tinga Poblana, a 1-2 punch of braised pork and spicy chorizo finding balance in light crema plus ample garlic and progressing onward to unctuous mushrooms whose woodsy umami-funk was lent levity by light spice and citrus it would be difficult to decide which was more impressive and yet having experienced goat in a number of forms including upscale Greek at Johnny Monis’ Komi and traditional Mexican stew from Chicago’s celebrated “Birria Zaragoza” I can say without second thought that the Chivo here is exemplary, the meat easily shredded by fork with a light gaminess on first bite giving way to soft grassy tones quick to meld with acid, sweetness, and just enough onion and cilantro to make flavors pop; more than enough incentive to return for a second look at it and the rest of the menu…plus perhaps some Naked City next door.
