FT33
Sourdough and Rosemary Focaccia
Coppa di Testa and Snail Tortelloni, Leeks, Fine Herbs, Mangalitza Pancetta
Heirloom Polenta, Mushrooms, Farm Egg, Radish, Chervil
Lac Brome Duck, Black Pudding, Apple, Parsnip, Puffed Grain
Valrhona Dulcey, Pear, Gingersnap, Bourbon Caramel
Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, Hazelnut, Financier, Caramelized Apple
Featuring the talents of Chef Matt Mccallister, a well traveled young man whose training includes time with names like Vetri, Achatz, and Brock it was at the urging of not only trusted sources but my servers at Foreign & Domestic, Oddfellows, Stephan Pyles, The Mansion, and Hypnotic Donuts that “Modern Farmer’s Market” inspired FT33 was shoehorned into my packed agenda – my 5:30 arrival for a 6:00pm opening landing me a seat at Table 33 peering directly into the kitchen. Heavy in wood with personality pieces such as cookbooks and mementos distributed about the space in a manner akin to San Francisco’s Saison my walk-in reservation was greeted with smiles from chefs plus servers alike and unfortunately unable to partake in the tasting menu without advanced notice the five courses that followed were nothing short of stunning. Strong on technique and simple preparations meant to coax maximum flavor out of the best of the day’s bounty it was with hot bread and fresh butter that I began and with service trumping both Pyles and Fearing’s eponymous dining rooms the courses began a steady march from the kitchen – each building on the last and showing the chef’s well honed-skills as nearly translucent pasta rivaled that of Marc Vetri while both the polenta and duck trumped anything I enjoyed at Husk, instead harkening memories of a landmark meal at McCrady’s with regard to sourcing, preparation, and presentation. Previously downgraded on desserts but clearly turning the page with the addition of a new pastry chef and more space for the team to work it was in the sweets that things took a turn to the ‘modernist’ and although both plates found use of crumbles, gels, and ISI canisters the plates only seemed to benefit as flavors remained robust and natural while textures wowed. Undoubtedly due its substantial accolades and clearly rewarded by diners and peers as the most ‘exciting’ restaurant in Dallas, FT33 is best regarded as destination dining and should it continue to develop as it is I’ve little doubt it will become exactly that – a reason in itself to visit Dallas with national awards and recognition to match.
