Fearing’s
Butter, Jalapeno Cornbread, Lavash, Baguette
Salmon Mousse Spoon with Plantain, Peppers, Onions
Dean’s Tortilla Soup with South of the Border Flavorings
Flash Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras on Pistachio Butter with Quince Jam and Nantucket Bay Scallops with Shaved Heirloom Carrots, Baby Kale and White Balsamic/Foie Gras Vinaigrette
Apricot Barbecue Glazed Lockhart Texas Quail on Iceberg Wedge Salad with Point Reyes Blue Cheese and House Made Cider Braised Bacon
Apple Horchata Intermezzo
Chocolate Fluffer Nutter with Vanilla Malt Shake and Peanut Butter Brittle
Banana Pudding with Homemade Vanilla Wafers, Toasted Meringue, Bananas Foster Sauce and Warm Beignets
Located in The Ritz-Carlton and perhaps Dallas’ most celebrated dining experience, Dean Fearing’s eponymous restaurant was my original Tuesday dining destination, but opting to squeeze in a visit to FT33 prior to sitting down in the historic hotel I can only assume I did the cuisine no favors while the staff and service did the same for themselves. Seated just after 8:30, my reserved time, after an extended wait at the bar for my “table to be prepared” despite a dining room only 2/3 full I shall only assume this was an attempt to convince me to try a cocktail – offered thrice – and eventually led to a table too far from the open kitchen to offer much of a vantage I was presented a menu and water before another long wait. Eventually greeted by one of a handful of servers, again forced to decline a drink, the question of a tasting menu was met with a roundabout explanation indicating lack of knowledge (or desire to serve such) and taking the hint an a la carte order was placed to focus on signatures – dishes the staff must presume to be so well known that they are left on the table without more than two-word descriptions such as “the quail.” Speaking to the quality of the fare, the ancillary items like breads, amuses, and intermezzos were mostly forgettable while a trio of appetizers all proved well prepared if not particularly memorable – the soup no better than any mom n’ pop spot, the foie well prepared but the tiny scallops rendered rubbery, and the quail a classic with great bacon and blue wasted on a mundane wedge. At this point mostly bored and regretting having not ordered more at FT33 it was in the sweets that Fearing’s found some salvation as both the gussied up Fluffer Nutter and Banana Pudding were amongst the best I’ve ever tasted, and at $10 each the best values, textures, and flavors of the night leaving me to ponder whether drinks and dessert in the lounge would have been the better choice.
