Barley Swin
2011 Canals & Munne Cava
Iced Tea from Republic of Tea
Uni, Lettuce, Peanut Butter (Puffed rice, Strawberry Vinaigrette)
Hedgehog Mushroom, Pine Caramel, Trout Roe (Fennel Panna Cotta)
Red Snapper, Strawberry, Black Truffle (Ponzu)
Biscuit, Preserved Fruit, Bacon
Tilefish, Dashi, Turnip (Saffron, Squash)
Soft Egg, Sweet Potato, Bluefoot Mushroom (Jasmine, Soy, Capers, Mustard Seed)
Grilled Lamb, Yogurt, Greenbelt Onion, Almond (Rutabaga, Golden Raisins)
Beet, Tangerine, Kefir (Granita, Carbonation)
Duck, Broccoli, Barley (Crispy Skin, Duck Jus Sidecar)
Braised Rabbit, Hay Mousse, Turnips (Pickled Carrots, Bleu Cheese)
Ham, Pinto Beans, Chard
Hoe Cakes, Fermented Peas, Hot Sauce (Maple, Foie Gras, Banana)
Whey Panna Cotta, Citrus, Beet, Coffee
Barley Cake, Sweet Potato, Whipped Caramel, Brown Butter
Chocolate, Basil, Melon Caviar, Puffed Rice
Without a doubt my most highly anticipated meal in Austin, dinner at Beard Award nominated chef Bryce Gilmore’s Barley Swine nearly fell by the wayside twice due to unforeseen circumstance but thanks to the diligent work of General Manager Billy Timms all was saved – a complete tasting menu for one (re)scheduled at 5:00pm on Thursday delivering fifteen plates of inventive cuisine featuring the region’s best farmers. Modern in style but rooted in classic technique a meal at Barley Swine begins with warm greetings and a glass of bubbly but with little fuss or pageantry thereafter the experience that follows can best be compared to dinner served in the home of an old friend – each course a story delivered with a smile, feedback always sought and satisfaction assured. Beginning light and progressing towards heavy in traditional tasting menu format without ever once compromising on quality or complexity suffice it to say that no single dish can hope to capture the nature of Gilmore’s cuisine but in an attempt to do so one would be best served to focus on purity of flavors and seemingly discrepant ingredients serving to enhance rather than alter or distract – the pristine raw snapper taking on new life in the sweetness of strawberries with an aromatic truffled linger for example…or perhaps the funky century egg brought to a head by briny capers and mustard, an aggressive assault on the senses kept in check by tender mushrooms and naturally sweet starch. Every bit a ‘perfect’ meal without a single plate eliciting less than awe of its quality and nuance suffice it to say that Barley Swine was everything I expected and more – a $75 tasting trumping Michelin starred meals 3-to-6 times as expensive both stateside and abroad; a ‘destination’ meal deep in the heart of Texas.
