Odd Duck
Southport – Tawny Port, Ransom Gin, Cherry, Cava
Parker House Rolls, Pig Head, Mustard Seed
Shiitake Doughnut, Popcorn, Mushroom Cream, Balsamic
Baked Sweet Potato, Yogurt, Peanuts, Cilantro
Chicken Fried Chicken Egg, Mushrooms, Hot Sauce
Andouille, Cornmeal Pancake, Coffee Mayonnaise
Bread Pudding, Malted Ice Cream, Beer Caramel
Brownie, Milk Chocolate, Sweet Potato, Sorghum
The brick and mortar iteration of Chef Bryce Gilmore’s Farm-to-Trailer truck and a relative newcomer to the local dining scene it was a foregone conclusion after Thursday’s dinner at Barley Swine that a visit to Odd Duck would find its way into my Austin agenda – a late night walk-in seat at the bar mine for the taking as a nightcap after a great meal at Uchi. Larger in size and far more casual than its older brother but no less innovative in cuisine or effusive in service it was under the watchful eye of two bartenders that my meal took place and quickly making friends with a pair of locals seated next to me it would not be long before drinks and several small plates would arrive. Featuring a large list of local vendors and a slick yet rustic style as great tunes played over the din of the crowd it was first with a cocktail that my Odd Duck experience began and balancing the heft of port with cava’s dry bubbles plus notes both sweet and herbal the Southport shined – its bold but diverse flavor profile effortlessly pairing with the all but the most mild of the savories much to my delight. Moving on to the food, a pair of breads began my tasting and featuring a pair of yeasty Parker rolls stuffed with tete de cochon tinged with dijon the meal kicked off with a blast to the tastebuds only to find even more oomph in an umami-laden doughnut complete with smoky popcorn and rich mushroom cream kept in check with just a touch of acid. Starting plates proper lightly with sweet potato in textures and flavors that would not have been out of place at Barley Swine before moving into two of the restaurant’s headstrong signatures suffice it to say that both the crunchy poached egg with house made hot sauce and the spicy sausage with light chicory cream over soft hoecakes are ‘must orders’ – a sentiment shared equally by a pair of decadent desserts, each better than any of the sweets at Barley Swine and the buttery bread pudding with toasty marshmallows, salty caramel, candied nuts, and hoppy top notes a veritable essay on balancing discrepant, complex flavors into something far better than the sum of already impressive parts.
http://oddduckaustin.com/