Ken’s Donuts
Sour Cream Old Fashioned
Strawberry Ring
Blueberry Cake
Apple Fritter
Chutney Samosa
With the country in the midst of an artisan donut ‘movement,’ suffice it to say that no city stood to benefit more than Austin – both Angel and Gourdough’s serving up excellent takes on the American favorite while first Mrs. Johnson’s and then, on Saturday morning, Ken’s failed to wow even the slightest. Admittedly a bit of a connoisseur, or snob, about pastry but also having traveled enough to appreciate versions both classic and modern the problem with Ken’s stems from the same place as Mrs. Johnson – an overly doughy yeast starter and too little moisture in the cake rendering both versions greasy on the surface and dull within, a situation not helped by intensely artificial flavors with only the crispy rimmed fritter proving acceptable…and the samosa quite terrible. Open 24-hours and close to the University Ken’s Donuts will obviously never be mistaken as artisan and while it may indeed be “old” it most certainly is not a classic…it is cheap, drunk college food, no more and no less.
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