Congress
No.9 Dream – Apricot Preserves, Ginger, Citrus, Chinese Five Spice, Shiso
Cereal and ‘Milkshake’ – Bergamot, Marmalade, Coconut, Cream, Nitrogen Whipped
Fennel Puree, Tomato Gelee
Warm Salted Butter Roll
Slow Poached Egg – Sunchokes, Sunflower Sprouts and Seeds, Dijonnaise, Garlic Crouton
Garlic and Chive Gnocchi – Zucchini, Grilled Escarole, Black Truffle Bechamel, Calabrese
Foie Gras Torchon – Compressed Apple, Celery, Raisin, Peanut Sable, Foie Gras Brioche
Roasted Squab – Royal Dates, Brussels Sprouts, Chocolate, Smoked Chestnut
Fried Malt Pudding – Praline Mousse, Nutella Crunch, Blood Orange Sorbet
Carrot Cake Pain Perdu – Gingersnap, Candied Orange, Walnut, Cream Cheese Ice Cream
Chocolate Truffle
For my last dinner in Texas I decided to turn my attention slightly more formal, an 8pm table for one during a sudden thunderstorm at downtown’s Congress, the modern “old dame” helmed by former Mansion at Turtle Creek Chef David Bull considered by many to still be the best fine dining in Austin’s otherwise thriving culinary youth movement. Unexpectedly large in size and only formal by loose standards of white tablecloths beneath high ceilings as genuinely charming service kept careful watch a meal at Congress is largely a choice of tasting or prix-fixe plus a few supplements and opting for the later, slightly modified, the six courses that followed were nearly faultless in execution though at the same time perhaps a little too ‘safe.’ Clearly a space for locals, the friendly couple at the table to my left calling staff by name and sharing memories of meals past with me as they dined, it was with an herbal amuse and buttery bread that the meal began and followed closely by a pair of vegetarian plates it was largely in the quality of produce that each shined as complex textures and typically bold flavors were presented with restraint, a pair of proteins soon to follow proving equally well prepared though save for the juxtaposition of gamey squab and smoky chestnuts equally tame. Opting for a pair of mocktails to sip with the savories, the aromatic ‘Dream’ far more interesting than a bland jug of aerated milk, it was finally with desserts that Congress got truly creative and beginning with a meringue-like ‘malt’ balanced by nutty mousse plus bitter-sweet sorbet before progressing to crumbly fried carrot cake finding foil for its spice in a quenelle of tangy frozen cream it would be a toss up to decide which was more memorable, though the combination proved good enough to bring me back to sister restaurant “Second Bar + Kitchen” the following day for a decidedly decadent brunch and a chance to take another look at pastry chef Erica Waksmunski’s work.
