Quince
2009 Fergnettina Brut
Shrub Fumoso – Raynaud Brandy, Zucca Amaro, Shrub Tonic, Strawberry-Rhubarb Gastrique
Tomato Croquette with buratta mousse
Stuzzichini di Benvenuto – potato chip with pomme puree, razor clam, black olive / citrus cured salmon with zucchini and avocado mousse / Riesling cracker with chickpea, green curry, pickled green strawberry / corn barvois with lovage and buttermilk (not photographed)
Chilled Watermelon soup with watermelon rind and iberico ham
Baguette, Milk Bread, Dark Rye
Cold Pea Soup – Buratta and chive blossoms
Amberjack – Cherry Tomato, Seaweed, Lemon Cucumber
White Asparagus – Morel Mushroom, Spring Garlic, Vin Jaune
Tortelli alla Cecilia Chiang – Royal Osetra Caviar, Smoked Sturgeon, Shallot
Tagliolini e Oro – Cocoa, Japanese Surf Clam, Melon
Suckling Pig Tortellini – Parmigiano Reggiano Fonduta
Four Story Hill Farm Poussin – Ranier Cherry, Sicilian Pistachio, Corn
Cheese Carte – Bodacious, Holey Moly, Cappucetto, Fruit Bread, Stone Fruit Moustarde, Fresh Honey Comb
Chartreuse Granita – Green Apple, Candied Apple, Honey
Middleton Farm Berries – Yogurt, Mara Des Bois, Valrhona Opalys
Mignardises
Amaro Ciociaro – Sora
Take Home Canele
Toqued by Michael Tusk and long tenured on my Bay Area bucket list it was mostly a matter of limited time and the area’s plethora of outstanding Italian dining that had delayed my seminal visit to Quince, a situation I vowed to remedy as soon as possible given a recently minted second star from Michelin and rumors of the restaurant executing at a whole new level since acquiring the talents of Jonathan Black as chef de cuisine. Located in a historic landmark building on Pacific with both service and décor befitting the Relais & Chateaux designation it was just after the restaurant’s 5:30 opening that I was welcomed at the hostess podium and soon finding comfort at a spacious two-top it would not be long before the show began, a complimentary glass of champagne and five small bites presented before I ever even glimpsed a menu. Featuring three options for dining with a trio of optional supplements it was without debate that I opted for Tusk’s 9+ course “Quince Menu” and starting off with an amuse bouche of melon soup nearly every course to follow could be best summarized by the word ‘fresh’ – the chef’s time at Chez Panisse on full display with perfect produce and light proteins in harmony at every turn. Steady in progression with a gift of pea soup proving an early favorite it was in the menu’s third proper course, the $30 supplement of “Tortelli alla Cecilia Chiang,” that the evening truly took flight and although nothing to follow would surpass the burst of briny eggs juxtaposing creamy smoked sturgeon both the Tagliolini and Tortellini were also beyond reproach, a similar bit of praise befitting the poussin and its accoutrements despite a near-thirty minute delay in its delivery due to a large party Beautiful in sweets service though unfortunately not on par with the savories in terms of taste or texture it was with good fortune that an early inquiry was made about the restaurant’s recently-defunct cheese cart and in a show of service befitting America’s top tables the chariot emerged once more – a $20 supplement worth every cent not only for the matured fromage but also for accoutrements including rooftop honeycomb and the best fruit bread to ever pass my lips.
RECOMMENDED: With small portions of light French-Cal-Italian cuisine served at a leisurely pace even small appetites should find the longer menu manageable and for all but the devout vegan/vegetarian the Tortelli alla Cecilia Chiang should not be missed.
AVOID: Desserts trend weaker than savories and the take-home canele was far too spongy, particularly compared to the reference-standard version offered at Saison.
TIP: For those watching their budget a smaller three-course menu can be ordered at the bar and for others merely seeking a quick bite an a la carte plate of the Tortelli with a glass of champagne is amongst the most luxurious pairings I can think of in San Francisco…or anywhere.
