Sketch, London UK

Sketch

Black Croque – Squid Ink Bread, Mozzarella, Basil Oil, Tomato, Courgette

Aged Comte Gougeres with Purple Cabbage Jam

Foie Gras Terrine with Rhubarb Jam and Grilled Bread

Pierre Gagnaire’s Sauternes – Sauternes Domaine Clos le Comte, Angostura 1824 Rum, Apple Juice, Cinnamon

Champagne/Lime/Vanilla Gelee, Tuna Paste/White Sesame/Red Currant, Tartlet of Horseradish Cream/Comte/White Chocolate, Yougurt/Cous-cous/Salmon Pearls, Cumin/Almond Sable, Bread Souffle/Crab Brandade/Pink Peppercorn

Unsalted and Citrus English Farmhouse Butters/Seeded Fig and Mini French Baguette Bread

Morel – Creamed Morel and Spinach with Coffee / Celeriac Cubes with Sesame Seeds

Foie Gras – Foie Gras Ravioli / Red Onions and Baby Turnips Braised with Curry

Guinea Fowl – Roast-poached breast rubbed with lime / Almond Cream Stuffing with Colombo Spices / Sauce Turner / Seasonal Mushrooms with Swiss Chard / Golden Delicious / Durum-wheat Semolina

Middle-England Ewe’s Milk / Stichelton / Eve’s Brick / Teamsborough / 12-yr Cheddar, Mango Chutney/Roquefort Ice Cream with Pear Veloute/Celery with Paprika/Maldon Salted Olive Oil Poached Apple

Baba – Soaked with Iced Syrup / Lemon Jelly / Almonds / Poppy Chantilly / Red Berries / Ron Zacapa 23 Year Rum

Vanilla Souffle – Tahitian Vanilla / Vanilla and Hojicha Tea Ice Cream / Strawberry Coulis with Milk Foam, Crystalized Sugar, Matcha Green Tea / Vanilla and Hojicha Tea Jelly with white almond paste

Lemon-Basil Chocolate / Yuzu-Hazelnut Marshmallow / White Chocolate Meringue with Rhubarb

Fortuitously blessed with the ability to sleep soundly on aircrafts at any time of day it was fresh off the red-eye from McCarran to Heathrow that I walked into The Parlour at Sketch and although a table laid in wait at The Lecture Room upstairs just sixty minutes later I simply could not resist the temptation to experience the ‘casual’ side of my favorite Chef’s cuisine amidst a room of intriguing design and some of London’s most beautiful people. Truly a space to see and be seen with eye catching décor at every turn it was in a trio of small plates that my Sketch experience began and served en masse at my request not a single bite underwhelmed in the least, the ethereal gougeres melting to the tongue while both the creamy liver and black brioche would not have been out of place at Michelin starred spots throughout the English capital. Already impressed with the best yet to come it was with a surprisingly smooth transition that I moved to the posh environs upstairs and having already studied the menu at length a six course tasting soon progressed, though as anyone familiar with Chef Gagnaire will know the plates hovered somewhere in the mid-twenties with concepts and flavors evolving exponentially as a well-trained staff assured I was never for want. Truly a landmark meal for many of the same reasons that I’ve enjoyed Twist and Rue Balzac in the past suffice it to say that those willing to adventure into seemingly discordant flavors are likely to be rewarded for their faith and with bitter playing a strong role in both Morels and Foie Gras while intense sweetness was well served in the indulgent $51 cocktail and a soufflé standing tall and proud the highlights of the meal were in fact the three-piece guinea fowl and a cheese cart focused on the local and unpasteurized with thick cuts and clever accoutrements unlike any I’d see elsewhere in the subsequent eight days – the unpasteurized Stichelton particularly elegant and a beautiful segue to a baba that would trump even Ducasse, the savory sesame notes playing perfect foil to smooth lemon jam while a stiff shot of rum found levity in syrup, cream, and semi-tart fruits.

RECOMMENDED: With an ever changing menu the focus should be on plates where discrepant flavors are most prominent, Chef Gagnaire and his executive chef’s at each of his restaurants often thriving where bitter meets sweet. The cheese course and cocktail list also warrant attention compared to the rest of London’s 2-3* scene.

AVOID: N/A, though past experience generally sees me trend away from pepper and spice in Gagnaire’s cuisine as these flavors tend to be quite prominent when utilized.

TIP: Make time for a tour afterwards, both the Lecture Room and the rest of the building warrant exploration.

https://www.sketch.uk.com/