Kitchen Table, London UK

Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs

John Dory – Salted and Smoked, Zest of Lemon, Radishes, Peppercorn

Girolles – Crispy Sourdough, Pickled Garlic Flower Buds, Wild Garlic Emulsion, House Cured Lardo

Chicken – Crispy Skin, Rosemary Mascarpone, Bacon Jam

Courgette – Flowers, Beetroot Sauce, Preserved Fennel Pollen

Carrot – Spiced Baby Carrot Soup with Elderflower

Scallop – Served Raw from the shell, Maldon Sea Salt, Raw Ginger Pickled Mayonaise, Bottarga

Plaice – Steamed Filet with Crispy Skin, Mussels, Charred Cabbage, White Strawberries, Wild Fennel

Asparagus-Truffle – Blanched and served in Hollandaise, Orange Zest, Summer Truffle

Pig – Suckling Shoulder pounded flat and roasted crisp, Kohlrabi, Apple, Chervil, Elderflower Capers

Lamb – Roasted Rump, Butter Poached White Onions, Lemon-Thyme, Sheep’s Yogurt, Minty English Pea

Ricotta – First Milking, English Cherries, Lemon Balm, Black Pepper Gastrique

Strawberry – English Strawberry, Hibiscus Jelly, Dried Rose Petal, Meadowsweet Cream

Raspberry – Elderflower Ice Cream, Frozen Olive Oil Dots, Raspberry Sauce

Gooseberry – Juice, Yogurt Parfait, Fresh Almonds, Trimmed Fir Tree Tips

Caramel – Praline Base, Salted Caramel Toffee, Caramel Ice Cream, Dark Chocolate Shell, Nuts

Sloe – Toasted Sloe Puree Marshmallow

Located on the backside of gourmet hotdog and champagne bar Bubbledogs is the sort of secret that separates the enthusiast from those simply looking for something good to eat, a casual space serving serious food straight from the hand of Chef James Knappett with service, sourcing, and skills on par with the city’s best. Titled “Kitchen Table” and manned by the young chef plus two in assist it is with a fine dining focus honed during stints at noma, per se, and Marcus Wareing that the sixteen course experience unfolds and with each dish prepped start to finish before the gaze of a twenty-seat communal counter it was only the inebriated self-described ‘socialite’ to my right that proved anything short of impressive during the three hour night. Beginning light and progressing to richer things while infusing the evening with anecdotes as they worked it was both in produce and proteins that the Kitchen Table team displayed their skills and although portions trend larger than a typical tasting rarely did a course go unfinished even by those claiming to be “full,” a strong testament to the beautiful interplay of only a few pristine ingredients compelling each bite. Truly an ‘experience’ as much as a meal and the sort of place where those invested are well rewarded in the results it was only The Fat Duck whose creativity wowed me more during my trip to the UK and taking into account the overall costs of each suffice it to say that Kitchen Table is a veritable bargain, a rarity in a city where even the most modest of Michelin’s stars often exceeds £100/pp.

 

RECOMMENDED: Offered as either a 12 or 16-course meal with a £20 difference in price one is well advised to pay the supplement – the courses of girolles, truffles, pork, raspberries, and scallops our bonuses for the night.

AVOID: Drinking too much and making asinine comments all night – your communal co-diners and the chefs deserve better.

TIP: Having begun to develop a buzz with reservations now booking months out one is well advised to check the website for hours and openings while also calling the restaurant to inquire about the wait list.

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