Bad Wolf Coffee
Canele
Blueberry Muffin
Blueberry Buckle
Cream Cheese Danish
Located just minutes from Bakin’ & Eggs with Canele de Bordeaux guaranteed fresh from their copper molds at 10am it was only an unexpected closure due to the birth of a child that prevented me from visiting Bad Wolf Coffee in November of 2013 but with no such blessed event to prevent my indulgence this time around it was just after 10:15 that we entered the small space and although slightly put-off by thumping Dub-Step I’d be hard pressed to find fault in anything else about Bad Wolf Coffee, the highly acclaimed space fronted by Chef Jonathan Ory. Considered by some to be the city’s best small-batch bakery and essentially a one-man-show with daily options aside from the canele a veritable “dealers choice” of both traditional and unique recipes it was to a quartet of options that we were greeted on arrival and opting for one of each, plus an additional pair of canele it was not long before we stood at the communal table amidst walls decorated by local artists ready to enjoy – a brief photo-session allowing the buckle, canele and the still-molten danish just enough time to cool as everything but the streusel-topped muffin was mere moments from the oven. Beginning first with fruited options it was a dense crumb seemingly imbued with cornmeal or semolina that greeted the tooth on biting into the fruit-studded muffin and although blueberries here were still snappy and sweet they simply could not compare to the bursting jewels soaking though the buttercake base of the buckle, a messy proposition well worth the subsequent blue fingers and absolute bargain at a mere $2.50. Moving next to crispy canele it should really come as no surprise that as with most French pastries a warm delivery provided for superior results and although sometimes prone to hyperbole regarding the things I love I personally have never experienced a better version of the small round cake – the crispy shell breaking to the tooth with just a touch of resistance and soon giving way to an interior of soft custard almost imperceptibly sweetened, hefty note of vanilla instead perfuming the palate with each creamy bite. Clearly a baker of considerable skill it was only after the danish had finally cooled that we delved into the item Chef Ory had personally sold us as his “best version yet” and although not a typical ‘must order’ for anyone in our party the buttery pocket filled with dense cream cheese and drizzled with frosting was indeed a stunner, the balance of sweet and savory straddling a fine line with results so rich that sharing was almost a necessity…an ‘almost’ that should be qualified by acknowledging the fact that no one really seemed keen on giving up any of their share despite Bad Wolf being the third stop on an early morning breakfast tour that had already seen substantial pastry intake at Cellar Door Provisions as well as Bakin’ & Eggs.
RECOMMENDED: Canele are available daily. You want several. The rest of the menu is subject to Chef Ory’s mood. You’ll want several of those, as well.
AVOID: Arriving too late….or too early as there was apparently a Kouign Amann due to come out of the oven around 11:00am that I’d have liked to stick around for.
TIP: Entirely lacking for chairs with loud music that likely won’t fit the tastes of many Bad Wolf is not particularly a place prone for long stays or a leisurely brunch but at the same time both the young female clerk and Chef Ory proved incredibly personable throughout our visit. Truly a no-frills spot but not at all skimping on atmosphere those who are interested should also be advised that art on the walls is not only local, but also available for sale.
http://badwolfcoffee.com/
