The Promontory
Thursdays on 53rd – Leatherbee Gin, Market Berry Meritage, Lemon, Aromatic Bitters
Iced Americano
HOUSE CHARCUTERIE BOARD – pork pate, foie gras wild mushroom terrine, serrano, rillette, mostarda
GRILLED LAMB BURGER – preserved tomato relish, pickled red onion, smoked feta, black olive tapenade, chickpea fries, olive challah
BRAISED PORK & FRIED CLAM PO BOY – fermented cabbage slaw, BBQ remoulade, french fries
QUAIL ON A STRING – asparagus, sunny side quail egg, quail liver mousse, pickled beech mushrooms, vanilla orange gastrique
KENTUCKY BURGOO – pork collar, quail, house made rabbit sausage, haricot vert, hominy, charred corn, stewed tomato broth
KALBI SHORT RIB – blistered shishito peppers, cashew, scallion
SPICED SLAGEL FAMILY FARM PORK RIBS – Spicy Shrimp, Braised Greens, Scallion Crepe, Eggplant Puree, Moroccan BBQ Sauce
BANNA PUDDING – Honey & summer truffle flan, banana & creme fraiche ice cream torchon, nilla wafer, caramelized banana purée, coconut milk
S’MORE SOUFFLÉ – smoked chocolate soufflé, graham cracker ice cream, brûlée marshmallow, smoked cocoa powder
BAKED ALASKA – hazelnut praline ice cream, espresso merengue, white coffee anglaise, hazelnut and tonka bean pound cake, hazelnut dust, flamed bourbon jelly
Noting up front that many would consider a late night meal after the tasting menu at Brindille gluttonous, if not foolhardy, it was none the less with a group of five and a last minute change of plans that I entered The Promontory, a hopping new South Loop spot sporting a 45 minute wait during which my friends and family chatted at the bar while perusing a menu on which everything sounded delicious while prices seemed too good to be “too good.” Surprisingly filled to capacity both inside and out by a mixed crowd widely ranging in race, sex, age, and style as smiles decorated nearly every face at the dimly lit tables beneath a soundtrack of jazz and blues it was eventually at three compacted two-tops that our group was sat and with menu already well studied an order was soon placed, our server at first a bit condescending regarding the requested coursing of plates but quick to correct his tone when the twelve-item order was made known. Truly a unique menu with plates divided into sections titled “cold/fast/embers/historic/snacks/pastry” it was with items from each area that our meal progressed and opting to double down on both the lamb burger and s’more soufflé so that everyone could get a good taste all ten of the night’s unique dishes would prove exemplary, the aforementioned burger by far the best I’ve tasted with an olive roll and panisse that could have just as easily stood on their own while the substantial charcuterie board was easily shared amongst the table at a cost far less than would be expected for house-cured meats of such quality. Additionally impressed by the stuffed po-boy balancing sweet, smoked pork and briny oysters plus the decadent “Burgoo” chalk-a-block full of meat with just enough acid to prevent the pot from being too heavy it was eventually in sweets that our 150 minute visit would culminate and with the restaurant still three-quarters full as the hour approached midnight it would be nearly impossible to decide which of the three was most impressive, the Baked Alaska unfortunately not flamed tableside but still impressive in its composition while the piping hot soufflé and creamy banana pudding both presented retooled classics with results far outshining their simple origins, the pudding in particular a stunning dish with textures galore and a topnote of truffle left to linger on the palate despite otherwise being expectedly sweet.
RECOMMENDED: Charcuterie Board, Lamb Burger, Po-Boy, Burgoo, Banana Pudding, S’mores Souffle.
AVOID: Quail on a String was fine, but presented nothing unique compared to the rest of the food while the Short Rib simply isn’t my style, though others at the table proclaimed it quite good at the bargain basement price of $7.
TIP: A last minute swap from the previously planned Dusek’s (a place I’d visit the following day) our wait was probably a bit longer than usual but with ample parking in the area, relatively easy access from both the red and green line, plus reservations available through the restaurant website others should not hesitate to make The Promontory a reason to visit a rejuvenating Hyde Park, the concert series available upstairs another impetus to check the place out.
http://promontorychicago.com/
