Nico Osteria
Blueberry Coffee Cake, Kouign Amann, Strawberry Cream Cheese Roll
Ricotta Bomboloni with Fior de latte, Vanilla Infused Honey, Fresh Preserves
Oven Baked Pancake with Raspberries, Pistachios, Fior di latte, Burton’s Maple Syrup
Porchetta Autostrada Sandwich with Roasted Purple Potatoes– Marinated Eggplant, Basil Aioli, Pickled Red Onion
Spaghetti Carbonara – Bacon, Egg Yolk, Bottarga
Trippa Alla Romana – Chickpeas, Kale, Tomato
Savory Polenta with Parmesan
Nico Torte – Lemon, Blueberry, Ginger, Citrus Poppyseed Gelato
Chocolate Financier – Mission Fig, Coffee, Buttermilk, Hazelnut Chocolate
Owned by Paul Kahan with offerings of breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus a weekend only brunch it was admittedly a difficult decision to decide exactly ‘when’ to visit Nico Osteria during my seven days in Chicago but largely underwhelmed by crudo or seemingly simple Italian preparations of fish at celebrated spots such as New York’s Marea in the past it was eventually in brunch that my sister, her fiancée, and I invested, the resultant $150 nine-plate tasting proving one of the best brunches in recent memory amidst the confines of a restaurant so well designed that one would hardly guess there was a boutique hotel upstairs. Truly a remarkable space, and well one suited to lingering over drinks or coffee, it was just after 9:30am that we arrived at the entryway podium and quickly seated by a gregarious hostess it would not be long before coffee and water were both filled, our server proving quite friendly though admittedly not exceedingly knowledgeable regarding newer offerings on a menu that changes from week-to-week. Featuring items both raw and cooked with sections inclusive of breakfast, lunch, pasta, pastry, and even offal it was only after several questions that our meal was crafted and requesting that plates be coursed out in three rounds everything from there on would progress smoothly, an opening volley of a three a la carte pastries and a quartet of doughnuts proving quite well crafted, though the later were a bit dull without the addition of the accoutrements including house made fior di latte and locally sourced honey. Sat beside a table clearly partaking in some hair of the dog to follow the previous night’s festivities it was perhaps thirty minutes after the first crackle of kouign amann that entrees arrived and opting for a quintet of plates inclusive of one side only the small plate of oil-soaked polenta would disappoint, the yolky pasta al dente and silky smooth with brine from both bacon and bottarga while spicy tripe was textbook tender and the skillet pancake ate more like a pistachio financier prepared as spoonbread…a good thing to say the least. Admittedly sated after these courses plus earlier doughnuts from Stan’s but unable to resist Amanda Rockman’s well regarded desserts it was with one more duo that our visit to The Thompson Hotel dining room came to a close and as good as the financier teaming with dark chocolate was it simply couldn’t compare to the “Nico Torte,” a dead ringer for Rockman’s Basque Cake that put her on the culinary map at Bristol and still one of the city’s very best desserts.
RECOMMENDED: Oven Baked Pancake, Nico Torte, Trippa Alla Romana, Spaghetti Carbonara.
AVOID: Savory Polenta was far too oily and Bombolini were rather dull without toppings.
TIP: Offering brunch from 9a until 3p on weekends complete with the same dessert menu offered at night those not particularly keen on the limited lunch selections or fish heavy dinner are likely to find a laid back brunch at Nico to be a ‘best of both worlds’ situation. Certainly not cheap but at the same time not overpriced considering the quality of the experience I only wish more restaurants were willing to offer such diversity during a meal often fraught with tedious egg dishes or gimmicks like Bloody Mary bars or bottomless mimosas.
http://www.nicoosteria.com/
