Roly’s Bakery
Pan Con Croqueta – Ground Seasoned Ham Croquettes with Swiss Cheese Served on Toasted Bread
Guava and Cheese Turnover
Cappucinno
Flan
Located on East Tropicana Avenue and as such driven past thrice weekly en route to work it was largely an effect of location and ongoing intrigue that led me to Roly’s Bakery on Saturday afternoon and opting for a small selection due to otherwise substantial eating plans my experience was fine, though certainly not without flaws. Obviously a small space, and one not particularly easily identified from the street despite large billboards located down the street, it was just prior to 2:00pm that I entered the small Cuban bakery and with several folks seated and eating I took my time to peruse the options, a middle-age woman keeping a watchful eye on me until I was ready to go, my $10 order of one savory and three seats delivered to the table with a cup of water just five minutes thereafter. Beginning first with the pork croquette sandwich, a pair of fried sticks filled with what I can best describe as ‘pig puree’ proving an acquired taste beneath tomatoes and Swiss cheese, I only ate one half before satisfying my curiosity and moving onward the guava-cream cheese pocket was indulged in similarly – a nice enough flavor, though most would find bottom of the wastebasket as I’d have simply preferred it more flaky and warm. To this point largely underwhelmed it was onward to the meal’s two best selections that I moved and although the ‘cappucino’ was two lovely bites of sponge cake rife with simple syrup it simply could not compare to the eggy custard flan, a world-class example with a lightly browned top and pockets of raisins amidst a sea of lightly sugared eggs.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Small, cozy, and pleasant in service Roly’s is one of the few places where locals are able to indulge in Cuban baked goods, but with a limited selection and too much focus on ‘everything to everyone’ items like crème brûlée, cupcakes, and tiramisu I’d have rather see them focus on more esoteric specialties like Porto’s in Los Angeles – the lack of several items, including the tres leches, in portions smaller than a full tray was particularly disappointing.
RECOMMENDED: Flan is impressively yolky and just a touch sweet, a textbook example.
AVOID: Guava Cream Cheese had obviously been sitting out for a while as it was neither warm nor particularly flaky, a fair bit of sog already set in.
TIP: With items prepped at varying times throughout the day, those looking for a best selection are advised to arrive early for things best eaten warm or to call in advance regarding availability of the rest.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.rolysbakery.com/
