Cicchetti
Tomato, Basil, and Mozzarella Pizza
Nonna’s Meatballs with Pancetta Tomato Sauce and Ciabatta
Saffron Risotto with Melted Leeks and Fried Farm Egg
Gnocchi with Braised Lamb, Green Tomato, Cucumber, Basil Pine Nut Puree
Corn Fettuccini with Smoked Pink Shrimp, Black Pepper Pepita Crumble, Broccoli, Corn Cream sauce
Aged Trio of Duck – Breast, Sausage, and Confit with Roasted Potatoes and Balsamic Cipollini Onions
Scrambled Egg Bruschetta – Soft Scrambled Eggs, Ricotta, Crispy Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Green Salad
Reverse Affogato – Coffee Gelato, Vanilla Malted Milk, Sugar Dusted Doughnuts
Valrhona Grand Cru Gianduja Dark Chocolate Cannoli – Sweet Potato Flan, Candied Blood Orange, Chocolate Sorbetto, Balsamic ‘Caviar’
Caramel Tart – Dark Chocolate Dipped Corn Ice Cream, Hazelnut Cracker Jack
With my mother and aunt now in town and the wedding party soon to arrive our final meal as a ‘family of four’ took place at Cicchetti, the Midwest-begets-Italy concept currently making waves on Chicago’s Near North Side. Featuring the talents of Chef Mike Sheerin and pastries by Sarah Jordan, whose former home (Boka) three of us would visit that night, it was just moments after noon that we parked at the $14 valet and making our way through the doors to a small reception area juxtaposing the bar our reservation was confirmed – a large six-top soon providing us plenty of space in front of a kitchen bathed in natural light. Still a bustling space nearly nine-months after opening with not a seat unoccupied during our two-hour stay it was largely with an eye on diversity that our selections were made and with our server affirming that the ten-plate order was ‘a lot,’ though not excessive it would not be long before the first of four-courses arrived, the bowl of delicate meatballs bathed in rich tomato sauce commanding extra ciabatta in order to be mopped clean while pizza was more-so a flatbread, the crisp crust holding up admirable to puddles of fresh mozz. Treated next to a trio of pastas from which one ‘best’ would be difficult to declare it should only be said that those truly looking to experience Cicchetti at its best are wise to invest here – the vegetal punch of green tomatoes and cucumber an inspired pairing to braised lamb while fresh fettuccini tasted of the end of summer, a bit of crunch from smoky pumpkin seeds hinting at an impending fall. Almost a surefire setup for a letdown in secondi given the quality of each pasta both the duck and the open-faced egg sandwich were admirable, if not memorable, but moving on to dessert the meal again took flight, a duo of deconstructionist efforts in the affogato with donuts and atypical ‘cannoli’ proving exceedingly elegant while the caramel tart, set on each side with boulders of frozen, creamy corn was purely indulgent – another strong contender for ‘best dessert’ in a trip that had already seen several stunning sweets.
RECOMMENDED: With Sheerin and Jordan out as chef and pastry chef effective 9/23/14 it is hard to make any specific recommendations, but based on my experience in their tenure I’d strongly suggest pastas over proteins or antipasti.
AVOID: Risotto was good, but not on par with the handmade pastas while the secondi were merely good, the rest of the meal ‘standout.’
TIP: Keeping in mind the location those arriving by car should add plenty of time to accommodate miracle mile and/or gold coast traffic while also bringing enough cash to account for $14-20 parking.
http://www.cicchettirestaurant.com/
