Little Branch Café
Cinnamon Roll
Blueberry Scone
Chocolate Chip Cookie
Mascarpone Stuffed French Toast – 4 slices of brioche stuffed with mascarpone, grilled and topped with blueberry compote
Selected largely as a result of its proximity to Burnham Harbor my second breakfast on the Saturday of my sister’s wedding saw me seated at a tiny two-top inside Little Branch Café, an unassuming little place next-door to an organic dry-cleaner that surprisingly generated a steady stream of patrons throughout the course of my 45 minute stay. Apparently present since 2007 and well known to residents of the South Loop, where destination dining is rare, it was just moments past 10:00am when I entered the snug space and with counter-service followed by self-seating the service was perfunctory at best – a four item order with item to be prepped by the kitchen while the rest were bagged despite my insistence that they were going to be enjoyed in house. Presented with an empty plate and a plastic cup for water my first bites of Little Branch would come in the form of a thinly frosted cinnamon roll and proving far more doughy than the version from Brunch only a few bites were taken before the rest was set aside, my attention soon turning to a chocolate chip cookie that was good, if not memorable, followed by a still-warm scone that proved the best of the trio as pockets of fresh berries juxtaposed sugary pearls amidst a background built on butter. To this point largely underwhelmed it was approximately twenty minutes after seating that my French Toast would arrive and although admirable in its sweetness even before adding maple syrup I couldn’t help but find the description oversold – the ‘four’ pieces of brioche cut so thin that each ‘sandwich’ was no larger than a standard slice while a light smear of mascarpone offered no more texture or nuance than the pool of Crème Anglaise did by itself.
RECOMMENDED: The Scone was quite nice and the French Toast was competent, neither destination-worthy, but ‘good enough’ if one is in the area.
AVOID: The Cinnamon Roll was essentially a dinner roll with light cinnamon notes and a lacquer of frosting and the chocolate chip cookie was no better than one cut from a Pillsbury roll.
TIP: Small in size and bathed in natural light it seems as though the vast majority of diners at Little Branch were both locals and regulars, several tables lingering over conversation and coffee thus leaving my table the lone empty two-top as I exited the restaurant and thus leading several customer to walk away empty handed or simply order from the counter and take their pastries or coffee elsewhere – an early or off-hours visit probably best for those looking to dine in.
http://www.littlebranchcafe.com/
