Orsa & Winston
Herb Panna Cotta – black olive, nasturtium, grape
Kanpachi – pomegranate, hijiki seaweed, green peanuts, yuzu shiro
House-cured ham & cannellini beans – charred scallion, brown butter, pea tendrils, radish
Tahitian & Delicata squash soup – crème fraiche, nori, purslane, espelette, curry
Gnocchetti – pork ragu, truffle butter
Focaccia Milk Bread – cultured butter, radishes, black cod aioli
Satsuki rice with Uni – chowder, parmesan cream
Squab – romanesco, hazelnut, grape, ume, ash
Sauteed Okra – geoduck, tomato, mustard seed, dill
Egg Raviolo – ricotta, wagyu beef cheek ragu, mushroom, Okinawa purple potatoes
Melon Granita – passion fruit, lavender
Chocolate Mousse – tuile, bergamia, suzu shio
Cannoli – mascarpone mousse, amarena cherries, pistachio ice cream
Tiramisu – caramel pot du crème, espresso granita
Mignardises
Modestly impressed by Baco Mercat and intrigued to see what Josef Centeno’s return to fine dining would look like it was alongside a friend that I sat down at the Chef’s Counter of Orsa & Winston and opting for the eight-course omakase along with three ‘family style’ supplements the experience can best be described as ‘compelling,’ each plate visually impressive and texturally dynamic enough that even occasionally ‘safe’ choices and small service gaffs did not take away from that “wonder what’s next” excitement of a truly memorable meal. Currently priced at $90 for twelve plates, inclusive of extras that rivaled some of the eight printed courses, the evening began with a creamy shooter laced with acid and fruit to balance bitters and moving quickly to slices of raw kanpachi a theme quickly emerged as the snappy fish sat amidst unripened peanuts with pickles and pomegranate, plus a dab of caviar connecting the dots. Moving next to a ‘stew’ I felt to be far too rich and large in portion for so early in the meal before returning to form in a beautiful soup of seasonal squashes, crème fraiche, and curry aromatics with a surprisingly vegetal finish it was at this point that the chef decided to send an a la carte supplement and while the tender pasta itself was impressive enough, it was the richly trufled ragu that really stole the show, each bite featuring a smoky porcine top-note but finishing with earth amidst butter. Returning to the omakase after a bread plate I’d have gladly eaten by the basket given both cultured butter and a briny spread of black cod, I was a little surprised to see the kitchen play it so safe with sea urchin and again going heavy with starches this was a dish where half as much rice would have been even more compelling. Moving next to a small cut of squab that showed the versatility of gamebirds with several interesting accoutrements it was a sort of deconstructed ‘gumbo’ that arrived next, and undoubtedly the most aggressive savory of the evening one could not help but be impressed, the blistered tomatoes and unmistakable okra adding depth to briny burrowing clam on a plate of colors that really popped. Rounding out savories with a tender raviolo beneath widely discrepant ingredients that mostly worked before course eight brought us a rather pedantic chocolate pudding it was with good fortune that two more supplements arrived before meal’s end and although the deep, dark tiramisu was amongst the best non-traditional versions I’ve experienced to date, it was the paper-thin shelled cannoli that really wowed as airy mascarpone melded flavors of fruit and nuts into a flavor that reminisced of panettone without all the heaviness involved.
RECOMMENDED: For first timers I’d suggest the Omakase is the way to go, but were I to return it would be for the family-style a la carte, particularly the desserts.
AVOID: Obviously sporting an appetite larger than most I’d suggest those of a lesser constitution eat lightly preceding the Omakase as many plates are quite heavy.
TIP: For those with the time, money, and patience Orsa & Winston offers a 20+ course Super-Omakase for $195 if given 72-hours notice.
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