Trois Mec
Duche de Longueville French Sparkling Cider
Buckwheat Popcorn
Salad Tarte
Crispy Tapioca
Garlic Bread
Dijon Mustard Crème Brulee
Plum, Mint, Meyer Lemon, Molasses Infusion
Spot Prawn, Fermented Black Walnut, Tomato, Horseradish Crème Fraiche
Bread Water Tea
Grilled Eggplant Caviar, Jamon Iberico de Bellota, Honey, Melon
Fennel Gibson Soda
Sunchokes, Long Beans, Sunflower Seed, Hummus, Thyme
Vanilla Butter Cappuccino
Potato Pulp, Onion Subise, Brown Butter, Bonito, Salers Cheese
Blackberry, Black Walnut, Sage
Grilled Beef Belly, Abalone Mushroom, Herb Jus
Matcha Green Tea and Coconut Water
Carolina Gold Rice Pudding, Brown Butter, Egg Yolk
Smoked Canele and Apple Tart with Fennel
Amongst the most difficult reservations in the United States, and only open for a pair of seatings from Monday through Friday, suffice it to say it was through the efforts of a friend that I secured a kitchen-side seat to Trois Mec on Friday night – our 6:30pm arrival to a boisterous “Bonsoir” followed by two and a half hours of superlative dining in which food, drink, and service more than lived up to exorbitant expectations. As permanent a home as pop-up king Ludo Lefebvre has seen in some time, Trois Mec also sees the talents of Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo exhibited through the work of a well trained team, and although none of the “Three Guys” were present for more than a few minutes of our stay there was not a moment of the night where the room was not completely abuzz, nor one plate where the cuisine did not entirely succeed – a lone mis-pairing of “breadwater” tea from the $25 non-alcoholic pairing the only thing short of perfection in a meal featuring a dozen individual plates stretching from snack-size to decidedly more substantial. Pre-paid via credit card with only beverages plus a single supplement to be added at the table the meal began with a quintet of snacks and opening the palate with textures from crisp to creamy and up-front flavors including pungent garlic and mustard rendered sweet the overall result was one of intrigue, a “wonder what’s next” effect building in each bite. Long known as a master of melding bold flavors it was with snappy spot prawns beneath an heirloom tomato blanket that Ludo started the proper tasting and with potent black walnut playing off the heat of horseradish one couldn’t help but marvel at the balance, a completely different yet equally compelling experience rendered by a follow-up bowl of smoke and sweet with the ribbons of pork melting into an otherwise refreshing and fruity broth. Treated next to a texturally complex salad that found even more nuance in aromatic soda it was at course four that the highly praised supplement arrived and with a warm broth rife with both butter and foam as its companion it would be a fool’s folly for anyone to pass on the potato pulp, the cheese and subise elevating dueling layers of starch far beyond any side-dish or the $12 surcharge. Rounding out the savories with fatty beef belly and buttery mushrooms lent balance by both the paired beverage as well as the herb-infused jus it was onward to dessert that the menu progressed and with a sous-vide candied egg yolk adding sweetness plus texture the rice pudding was nothing short of a masterpiece, a strong contender for 2014’s ten best desserts. Finally culminating in a duo of mignardises as the clock struck nine it was with broad smiles that my friend and I discussed the experience as a whole and although we both admitted a bit of skepticism prior to entry there was not an ounce left on exit, Trois Mec undoubteldy ranking amongst Los Angeles’ very best.
RECOMMENDED: As the menu is pre-set the decisions are minimal, our selections of non-alcoholic pairings and the Potato Pulp both well worth the supplemental $25 and $12, respectively.
AVOID: Preconceptions that Trois Mec is merely the product of hype and a tricky reservation system.
TIP: Pay close attention to the restaurant’s website for on-sale dates and, if possible, gather a group large enough to reserve one of the 6 seat spots – the larger tables occasionally available for up to an hour after sales open for Mondays and Tuesdays while 2 or 4-tops are often completely sold out in 60 seconds or less.
http://www.troismec.com/
