Crush
Punch, Drunk, Love – Mint Infused Hendricks Gin, Lillet Rose, Watermelon Juice, Lime Juice
Kale Salad – Crispy Artichokes, Ricotta Salata, Warm Mushroom Vinaigrette
French Onion Soup – Gruyere Cheese, Baguette, Thyme
Shrimp Risotto – Arugula, Tomato Fondue
Sea Scallop Benny – Sunny-Side Quail Egg, Chorizo, Chipotle Hollandaise, Toast
Lamb Meatballs – Lemon Yogurt, Pistachio Chimichurri
Octopus Ceviche – Grapefruit, Pickled Jalapenos
Nana D’s Meatball Wood Fired Pizza – Oven Roasted Tomatoes, Pecorino
Crushed Fingerlings – Crème Fraiche, Chives
Grilled Salmon – Oyster Mushrooms, Carrot Miso Broth
Beef Hanger Steak – Crostini, Au Poivre Sauce
Ricotta Gnocchi – Braised Short Rib, Pea Puree
Sweet Elvis – Peanut Butter Flatbread, Banana, Bacon
Nutella Squeeze – Ice Cream Sandwich with Chocolate Whipped Cream and Caramelized Hazelnut
Chocolate Makeout – Warm Chocolate Fondant, Salted Caramel Cream, Peanut Brittle, Caramel Sauce
With a menu slightly more interesting than the average casino based small plates concept it was on the invitation of a friend that I sat down for a public relations sponsored meal at MGM’s Crush and with the kitchen clearly catering to the head of the table as Chef DeMarco sent out several plates intended to impress the results were largely passable, a few hits amidst several ‘safe’ presentations that had us all discussing the sweetbreads comments from the film “Chef.” Obviously intended to wow the millennial crowd with a large menu of cocktails and ‘tapas’ to be shared, the restaurant itself is of the loud variety and with high ceilings paired to minimal décor the long room echoes with the sounds of I Heart Radio as a youthful staff proves exceedingly efficient with excellent knowledge of the menu and recommendations thankfully far more useful than the typical “everything is good.” Low in lighting aside from the lounge in back it was with an exceedingly refreshing cocktail that the meal began and although not entirely inventive both the soup and salad that followed were impressive in their own right, the woodsy vinaigrette particularly memorable in its ability to upgrade an ingredient offered on almost every menu in town.
Moving next to several items selected by the table before progressing to those sent out by the chef both the risotto and the scallops proved competent, if underwhelming, while the lamb meatballs were clumsy and off-balanced without a bit of funk – the lone standout of the group a stunning ceviche with heat and acid surrounding supple cephalopod paired to crisp chips with slight sweetness making all the flavors pop.
Impressed by buttery flatbread beneath bright sauce that melded spiced meatballs to briny cheese it was actually the creamy crushed fingerlings that proved the best plate of the next round while overcooked salmon and steak both proved par for the course, the oft-raved gnocchi rounding out the savories with exceptional tenderness amidst hearty short ribs and au jus that entirely unfortunately overwhelmed any semblance of nuance that might have been added from pureed peas.
Always happy to over-order desserts it was with a trio of sweets that the meal wrapped up and while the $12 “Sweet Elvis” lived up to its name without any discernible savory notes added by the bacon both the ‘signature’ Squeeze and unfortunately named “Makeout” faired far better – the former surprisingly subtle with no lack of textures and temperatures in play while the later was decidedly dessert-like, a not-quite molten center avoiding tired nomenclature and instead eating like sticky toffee pudding with slight salinity keeping richness in check.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Backed by The N9NE Group and clearly gunning for the cocktail crowd without taking too many risks with the cuisine Crush serves its purpose and fills the small-plates niche for the MGM Grand admirably, its best utility likely as a place for drinks before KA for those unwilling to shell out the cash for L’Atelier and seeking an environment more trendy than what is offered at TAP; a lot of style, a bit of substance, and a bill befitting its location.
RECOMMENDED: Octopus Ceviche, Crushed Fingerlings, Nana D’s Meatball Wood Fired Pizza, Chocolate Makeout.
AVOID: Lamb Meatballs, Grilled Salmon.
TIP: Those looking for a slightly quieter environment, particularly for drinks, would be advised to request seating in the simulated-light Atrium, the low couches appearing quite comfortable while music plays at perhaps half-volume compared to the main dining room up front.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.mgmgrand.com/restaurants/crush.aspx
