Edison Food + Drink Lab
Squash blossom lump crab Rangoon – blood orange ginger jam, toasted macadamia
Redondo Serrano Ham Zeppole – Rosemary Doughnuts, Shaved Serrano Ham, Parmesan Snow, Compressed Melon
Foie Gras ‘Au Grains of Paradise’ – Fingerling Potatoes Bourguignon, Maitakes, Lamb Bacon, Red Wine Sauce, Duck Fat Fried Shallots
Fuji Apple + Baby Spinach Salad – Belgian Endive, Maytag Blue Cheese, Pain d’epice Walnuts, Pomegranate Raspberry Vinaigrette
Roasted Tomato Soup ‘Arrabiata’ – Burrata, Crispy Herbs, Serrano Chilies, Toasted Garlic, Candied Citrus Zest, Ciabatta Crouton
Spicy Jamaican-Fried Organic Chicken – Banana Bacon Waffle, Collard Greens, Chayote, Green Tomatoes, Chiles, Rum Curry Coconut Syrup
Crispy Duck Confit – Black Truffle Gnocchi, Swiss Chard, Roasted Shitake, Turnips, Prunes, Apple Cognac Jus
Wood Grilled Wagyu Culotte Steak – Duck Fat Fried Garlic Potatoes, Charred Romaine, Heirloom Tomato Brulee, Black Truffle Bearnaise
Edison Crullers – Cardamom Glaze, Carrot Ice Cream, White Raisin Puree
Peanut Butter Bar – House Vanilla Wafer Crust, Banana Custard, Chicory Ice Cream
Sugar Crusted Butter Cake – Brown Butter Ice Cream, Pistachio, Orange, Toffee Sauce
Said by some to be the most interesting restaurant in Tampa Bay or Saint Petersburg, a pre-game dinner at Edison Food + Drink Lab saw my oldest friend join in on a culinary tour trek across the Sunshine State and although the loud, industrial interior and forced valet parking left much to be desired the majority of Chef Jeannie Pierola’s creative cuisine lived up to high billing, a plate of truly awful and oily crullers the lone exception to the rule.
Obviously a space built for youngsters with trendy beers and cocktails served at a bar while wood and polished stone dominate the dining area it was mere moments after seating that drinks were offered and with some choosing to imbibe I instead explored the whimsical menu, a two page ordeal with several options seeming a bit overwrought while others played on culinary concepts from various regions around the world.
Beginning first with appetizers ranging from $9 to $17 it should seem obvious that items like foie gras and squash blossoms carry an upcharge but as good as both the creamy rangoon with aromatic sauce as well as the intensively savory take on duck liver were it was actually the light donuts dusted in confectioners’ sugar and draped with ham that stole the show, the addition of briny cheese and compressed melon offering a one-two punch of flavors helping to enliven the palate between each bite.
At this point experiencing a slight delay between courses due to an influx of several parties while my buddy ordered a second bottle of beer it was with good fortune that mains proved well worth the wait and with the chicken and waffles focused on earthy aromatics rather than overdoing it with spice the flavor profiles of both it and the impressively crisp duck can only be described as inspired, the tomato soup and tender beef a bit more straightforward though well prepared, delicious, and generously portioned just the same.
At this point pushing our luck in terms of making it to Amalie Arena on time it was in a trio of desserts that we called it a wrap and although the crullers proved not only greasy, but also cooked in questionably fresh oil, both the layered candy bar and butter soaked cake were far more pleasant, the chicory ice cream of the former a particularly lovely pairing to creamy banana custard while the batons of airy meringue added much needed levity to the heft of the large yellow square.
