Hearthstone Kitchen & Cellar
Lavazza Coffee
Half Grapefruit – Brown Sugar Brulee
Cinnamon Sticky Bun
Hash Browns – Apple Butter + Sour Cream
Rotisserie Pork Poutine – Crispy Potatoes + Cheddar Curds + Gravy
Brie & Truffle Georgian – Soft Poached Eggs + Truffles + Smoked Potatoes
Porchetta & Eggs for 2 – Cheesy Eggs + Hatch Green Chili Sauce + Tortillas + Onions + Cilantro
Pancakes – Blueberry Compote + Sweet Ricotta + Biscotti Crumbs + Maple Syrup
Duck & Waffles – Crispy Duck Confit + Whole Wheat & Rye Waffles + Maple Bourbon Syrup
Salted Caramel French Toast – Cinnamon Sticky Bun + Hazelnuts + Banana Maple Syrup
Twice impressed by Redrock Hotel and Casino’s Hearthstone while also finding some exquisite dishes on Chef Brian Massie’s menus at Citizens and FIX it was with high expectations that myself and two friends approached Summerlin’s newest weekend brunch and arriving to find the room far more laid back in the early afternoon hours as light flooded the elongated space it can only be said that as good as dinners have been, the nine items experienced at brunch were perhaps even better.
Still featuring a soundtrack that ranges from Snoop Dogg to Johnny Cash, with volume switching to the game once the NFL divisional playoffs began, it was at one of the elevated curved booths that our party sat and with the menu already showing a few tweaks from the one sent regarding a PR event on January 17th a feast was quickly assembled, the amicable servers deciding to send plates out in four rounds with Chef Massie stopping by more than once to discuss the concepts and show-off a few of his more prized creations.
Serving Lavazza coffee, with refills never left for want, it was with a light start that our meal began and although generally not one to order grapefruit the brown sugar bruleed half was far better than the usual while also proving an excellent counterpart to what may just be the city’s best sticky bun – a flower adorned pull-apart with a slightly crunchy exterior overlying a springy center as notes of yeast peaked through ample cinnamon and frosting that managed the tough act of being sweet without overwhelming the rest.
Moving next to a duo of brunch specific side dishes, along with a lightly charred boat-shaped bread listed under the section titled “Breakfast Georgians,” suffice it to say that although many are likely unfamiliar with Khachapurri, in general, Chef Massie’s upscale take on the Eastern European tradition was outstanding with smoke, salt, cream, and crunch all well represented while both the onion tinged hash and slow-roasted potato ‘poutine’ were equally impressive reinventions – the later featuring 3-step potatoes that are first roasted and then allowed to rest below pork-fat dripping from the spit before finally being crisped and paired to squeaky curds – a bit more pork and gravy putting the whole plate over the top.
Opting next for the $50 ‘for two’ Porchetta, and in fact that first table to ever order the dish, it was with a special presentation from the chef that I was allowed to crack the skin with a brisk tap from a knife and returning the round to the kitchen for plating and presentation the flavors proved no less impressive than the shatter, each mouthful of flavorful loin loaded with spices and texture while warm tortillas and lightly spiced sauce proved a perfect accoutrement not only to the pork but to a large bowl of eggs that my friend dubbed “the Robuchon potatoes of eggs – 50% cheese and 50% egg,” give or take some cream.
Rounding out the experience with ‘desserts,’ that would equally impress as entrees it was with another trio of plates that we were presented and although the duck confit was not quite as flavorful as the similarly themed plate at FIX the toothsome waffle was a perfect delivery mechanism for tastes both sweet and savory, the pancakes and French Toast each leaning far further towards the former with surprising complexity offered in the lightness of each base with all sorts of texture offered by accoutrements ranging from creamy ricotta and cream cheese frosting to crumbled cookies and crushed nuts, all beneath the sheen of syrup and bursting berries.
FIVE STARS: At this point having experienced no less than thirty different items from the Hearthstone kitchen, and becoming more enamored by the spot with each and every bite, I finally feel comfortable in saying that there is perhaps no better “American” restaurant in the city of Las Vegas and with menu changes set to occur in the coming months I simply cannot wait to return – a ‘destination’ less than a half mile from my door.
RECOMMENDED: Porchetta & Eggs for 2, Cinnamon Sticky Bun (or even better upgraded into the Salted Caramel French Toast,) Rotisserie Pork Poutine.
AVOID: If you’ve had the Duck and Waffles at FIX it is a pass at Hearthstone, though if you’ve not it is still quite good. Also, although I’ll drink it I remain underwhelmed by Lavazza.
TIP: Featuring several cocktails, a bloody Mary bar, and the full charcuterie and cheese menu plus the ability to hang out in the lounge for as long as one likes this isn’t the sort of brunch you rush through, particularly with the NFL playoffs ongoing and March Madness soon to come.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
