Grimaldi’s
Large Pizza – Half Traditional / Half White with Garlic and Artichoke Hearts
Dessert Trio – Sampler of Cannoli, Tiramisu, Bailey’s Irish Cream Cheesecake
Vowing to use every free offering and comp sent to me for my Birthday it was finally on Saturday that I decided to venture into Grimaldi’s Coal Oven Pizzeria at The Palazzo, and sporting a coupon that affords one free Large Pizza with one topping (up to $1
it was only after a bizarre incident at the front desk that I found seating in the restaurant’s main room, a request specifically made in order to watch the pizza makers at work without being exposed to the two-tops dotting the shopping mall’s faux-patio.
Having more than once been steered away from the Brooklyn Bridge original by New Yorkers whose palates I trust, it was just after 3:00 that I arrived at Grimaldi’s front stand and first refusing a seat at the bar, then basically having to demand to not be seated out front despite the restaurant only being 1/8 full, it was at a small table of my choosing that I finally relaxed, a young woman named Angie who preferred to call me “buddy” throughout the stay providing obligatory service, though often letting me see the bottom of my water glass.
Undoubtedly pegging me a tourist, and likely also put-off by the coupon which must be presented prior to placing an order, suffice it to say that my small table was low-priority compared to those drinking wine and ordering appetizers around me, but amused enough bby action in the kitchen and Martin, Sinatra, etc soundtrack above it really wasn’t too much a bother, the fifteen minute prep-time for my pie whizzing past and the resultant cracker-crisp disk landing before me with cheese still bubbling and crust lightly charred.
Obviously not the artisan pies offered by Neapolitan spots in town, but at the same time using quality ingredients including whole milk Mozzarella and their own signature sauces brought in direct from New York it should come as no surprise that the coal-oven crust is where Grimaldi’s makes its mark, and with good blister, great chew, and just enough thickness to hold up to toppings without being sloppy the flavor profile of both halves was good, if not great – the red sauce trending a bit too sweet for my palate while the white was nicely tinged with garlic, the artichoke hearts a bit overpriced at $4 however, and in desperate need of salt or some marinade.
Boxing up two red slices, as well as two slices of white, and later donating them to a trio of guys with a sign indicating “anything helps” en route to Caesars’, it seemed only fair to give desserts a try considering the complimentary pie, and with the fresh-piped cannoli far out-showing the soggy slop served at celebrated Carlo’s Bakery just a few steps away it is unfortunate that neither the cocoa-heavy tiramisu or overly-sweetened cheesecake could ascend to such heights, the $10 trio a good enough deal for scaled down portions, though if left to do it again I’d simply invest the $4.50 in the plate of two-cannolis, and save the rest for somewhere else.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Better than many local purveyors of the “New York Slice,” and served up in splashy environs that clearly cost the restaurant high rent, there are simply far better places for pizza in Sin City than Grimaldi’s – several even under the same roof.
RECOMMENDED: White Pizza, Cannoli.
AVOID: Artichokes, Tiramisu.
TIP: The aforementioned coupon is offered via e-mail to members of the restaurant’s fan-club, though having never visited any of their several Southwest locations I remain somewhat perplexed as to how exactly I ended up on the mailing list.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
www.grimaldispizzeria.com