Portofino
Warm Focaccia, Olive Oil, Balsamic
Caprese Salad – Heirloom Tomatoes, Bufala Mozzarella, Basil, Roasted Garlic Crumble
Meatballs – Kobe Beef and Duroc Pork, Fried Squash Blossom, Goat Cheese, Bacon, Beer Batter, San Marzano Tomatoes, 24 Month Parmigiano Reggiano
Crab Cake Arancini – Lemon Saffron Risotto, Tarragon-Pesto Aioli, Fresno Pickles, Cornichon
100 year Balsamic Glazed Grilled Octopus, Calabrese Peperonata, Fingerling Crisps, Salsa Verde, Capers
Spaghetti Carbonara – Pork Belly, Sweet Peas, Caramelized Onions, Guanciale
Burrata Agnolotti – Lobster, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Roasted Corn Butter
Gnocchi – Forest Mushrooms, Arugula, Truffle Fonduta, 24 Month Parmigiano Reggiano
Ripatelli – Lamb Bolognese, Roasted Red Peppers, Mint Pesto
Shrimp Fettuccini – Pancetta, Grilled Leeks, San Marzano Cherry Tomato Pomodoro
Veal Osso Buco – Saffron Risotto, Bone Marrow, Gremolata
Chicken Rollatini Parmesan – Chicken Ripieno with Housemade Chicken Sausage Stuffing, Housemade Marinara, Melted Mozzarella
Mediterranean Sea Bass – Roasted Cauliflower, Golden Raisins, Cauliflower Puree, Crisp Polenta, Hen of the Woods Mushrooms
Double Espresso on Ice
Nutella Semifreddo – Banana Rum Cake, Double Chocolate Gelato
Traditional Tiramisu – Cognac Crème, Lady Fingers
Limoncello Crème Brulee – Seasonal Berries, Strawberry Prosecco Sauce
Cannoli Napoleon – Creamy Ricotta Cheesecake, Shortbread Crust, Amarena Cherry Compote
Gelato – Strawberry Cheesecake, Double Chocolate, Vanilla Milkshake
Rebranded in mid-2014 under the direction of GM Chris Zadie and Chef Michael LaPlaca, with pastry contributions from the team at nearby Heritage Steak, Portofino achieved a lot of recognition over the last few months thanks to stories of their ‘diamond and gold’ lasagna, but a closer look at the menu and words from friends in the know indicated there was much more to the story than savvy marketing, the native Ohioan toque reportedly turning out some of the best Italian food in the city with nearly everything from pastas and sauces made in house.
Previously known as Onda, and still sporting much of the original space’s design, it was just moments before 6:30 when myself and two others sat down at the bar in wait for two more and with a friendly bartender offering up drinks and fluffy focaccia alongside lightly grassy olive oil blended with balsamic it would not be long before our group was complete, a white linen table on the upper level of the main dining room seemingly miles away from not only the Casino beyond, but also the Wildcats and Badgers playing on silent televisions in the lounge.
Large in size, with a palate of beige highlighted by lines of cursive decorating the walls, it was mere seconds after seating that Mr. Zadie greeted our table and with wine from one friend already decanted the party’s likes and dislikes were discussed, a family style tasting to follow as light music played overhead.
Divided into four courses, specifically antipasti, pasta, secondi, and dolci, it would not be long before the first round of food arrived and with Chef LePlaca personally presenting all four plates the descriptions were lengthy discourses clearly showing the young toque’s passion for everything from sourcing to plating, each dish putting a unique spin on something traditional and familiar in order to show the concepts and ingredients in new light.
Starting with salad and progressing to more substantial things, antipasti began with a Caprese punctuated by sundried rounds of tomato and garlic that acted to accentuate, rather than hide, the musky funk of fresh buffalo mozzarella and moving on to the signature crabcakes feigning as arancini one couldn’t help but smile at the whimsy or diversity of flavors, a far more ‘serious’ composition found in the upcoming spring starter of tender octopus glazed in old balsamic atop spicy hash while the supple meatballs topped in stuffed squash blossoms made a strong case for best in Sin City, the pungent duo of cheeses melding effortlessly to bright tomato puree below.
Repeatedly celebrated for their pastas, at least two now considered Strip-side staples, it was next in a quintet of family-style plates that we would indulge and eschewing a trend for undersaucing that seems more and more pervasive these days not a single option was less than superlative, the gnocchi so light they threatened to float off the plate were it not for the rich fonduta while tender agnolotti were every bit as creamy and decadent as ingredients would suggest, the rest of the lot textbook al dente with both the carbonara and fettuccini textbooks renditions while the signature wide-noodle ‘ripatelli’ performed a rarity with lamb, rendering it aromatic and vegetal as opposed to so rich as to overwhelm.
At this point allowed to choose secondi as dictated by hunger, a total of three entrees were selected and although the seared Branzino with two types of cauliflower alongside crispy mushrooms and polenta was flawlessly prepared it simply lacked the lust-inducing satisfaction of two other proteins, the osso buco defining the phrases ‘fall off the bone’ and ‘cut with a spoon’ atop creamy risotto while the upscaled take on Chicken Parm is a destination dish for any fan of the classic, a housemade sausage of leg and thigh wrapped inside a roulade of Mary’s Free Range breast coated in the lightest of breadings beneath marinara and melted mozzarella.
Admittedly full at this point, the veal substantial enough to go around the table twice, it was finally in desserts that the meal concluded and with the hour just past 9:00pm as coffee was served my joke about ‘all of them’ proved a case of being careful what you ask for, five plates of dolci arriving at once with the semifreddo undoubtedly the most well conceptualized while the tiramisu was a surprising delicate take on the classic with light notes of cocoa, espresso, and cream lingering on the palate long after a meal that ranks highly amongst my favorites this year.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Not yet a complete vision, the décor and desserts yet to be fully realized for an entirely new name and brand, Portofino is perhaps the most interesting take on “American” Italian food I’ve seen attempted to date and with a young and passionate team operating both the kitchen and front of house the question simply becomes one of filling a large dining room tucked away in the back corner of The Mirage, a gem becoming less hidden as more people discover the creativity and sing its praise.
RECOMMENDED: Gnocchi, Meatballs, Agnolotti, Osso Buco, Chicken Parmesan, Nutella Semifreddo.
AVOID: The Cannoli came off a bit overly complicated with the ricotta a touch too thick and sweet while the Shrimp Fettuccini was well done, but simply not on par with the other four pastas that rival the city’s best.
TIP: Tasting menus are not specifically offered, but available on request, our total $65pp with corkage comped, but normally $25/bottle. Those looking to score a deal are encouraged to sign in to Mirage Free WiFi on arrival, a special discount code for 20% currently available at the end of the welcoming video.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.mirage.com/restaurants/portofino-by-chef-michael-laplaca.aspx
