Guelaguetza
Red Fruit, Walnut, and Melon Horchatta
Fresh Tortillas with Sweet Mole and Queso Fresco
Tamal Oaxaqueno de Mole Negro con Pollo – Banana Leaf wrapped Corn Dough Tamale with Shredded Chicken in Black Mole
Tlayuda Guelaguetza – Imported Tortilla Tlayuda layered with Asiento Paste and Black Bean Paste with Queso Fresco, Cabbage, Tasajo, Cecina, Chorizo, Oaxaca Cheese
Quesillo Fundido – Mixed Oaxaca Cheese with Chorizo and Mushrooms
Festival de Moles – Black, Red, Estofado, Coloradito, Sliced Chicken Breast, Rice, Handmade Tortilla
Taco de Barbacoa de Chivo – Huge Handmade Corn Tortilla rolled around Young Goat cooked in Broth with Dried Chiles, Avocado Leaves, Herbs, Goat Broth
Slated to take away an American Classics award from the James Beard Foundation in 2015 for cuisine that could not be less “American” if it tried, Guelaguetza had long been on the culinary radar, and finding two locals who also had surprisingly never ventured inside the large orange building a reservation was set – our noon arrival finding the space perhaps one-quarter full with staff entirely unstrained and service, thus, exemplary throughout the ninety minute stay.
Mostly focused on Oaxacan fare, with a particular focus on Mole and imported crispy Tlayuda, it is to a nearly one-hundred item menu that diners are greeted, and with a small retail store as well as pastry case up front plus traditional décor beneath exposed ventilation the setting is slightly more upscale than several similar spots, but at the same time still quite ‘homey’ with the occasional stain or damaged table covering never far away – the open kitchen, however, entirely spotless with a team of at least eight working diligently crafting plates from grills, griddles, and fryers in plain view.
Acknowledging large portions, and starting off with a smooth rice milk horchatta gussied up with fruit and nuts, it was eventually on four plates and one platter that our decisions would land and starting with house tortillas dressed in sweet red Mole appetites were piqued with expectations of good things to come.
Perhaps unexpectedly the sort of place to serve ‘family style,’ and neglecting to ask for dishes to be coursed out, it was after a mere fifteen minutes that the glut of our order arrived and nearly overflowing a sizeable fourtop it was obvious from the start that someone would be taking leftovers home – the festival of moles alone large enough to feed a party of our size with all five varieties coming across entirely different from one another, the tomato based version with peppers certainly the most ‘vibrant’ while the black iteration strewn with shredded chicken was so earthy and aromatic up front that it almost came as a surprise when the linger was that of dark chocolate – this version particularly well paired to the rice, though the spicy pink version also necessitated such balance while the sweet version proved best slathered on the included soft tortilla that doubled as wrap for bubbly Quesillo Fundido teaming with snappy mushrooms and spicy house-made pork.
Continuing with classics, it was next in the eponymous Tlayuda that we indulged and although the tortilla topped in cabbage, beans, and cheese was quite good on its own the simply grilled meats were far too thin to have spent so long over heat – all but the sausage decidedly dried out and although flavorful enough, almost jerky-like in texture, especially when compared to the tender young goat rolled into an enormous taco served adjacent to a bowl of spicy stew, the braise on the meat nothing short of textbook with just enough heat to make all the flavors pop.
Unknowingly saving the best for last, already getting quite full by the time we unwrapped the steaming hot parcel, those looking for a completely new take on the tried and true tamale would be well served to order one of the Tamal Oaxaqueno de Mole Negro con Pollo, for as good as the black mole from the ‘festival’ was, an entirely new level of complexity was found when blending it with sweet, ground corn dough and a large portion of juicy shredded chicken, nearly a pound of comforting flavor rendering dessert entirely unnecessary, especially considering the fact that tres leches has been eliminated from the menu leaving behind only a few simple flans, gelatins, and fried plantains.
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