Taco Maria
Canapes – Pickled Carrot, Pork Trotter with Scallion Aioli, Suzuki with Nori Chip
Betabeles – Beet, Winter Citrus, Quinoa, Jalapenos, Cilantro, Dill
Enchilada ‘Suiza’ de Ortigas – Black Trumpets, Huitlacoche, Queso Oaxaca, Stinging Nettles
Arroz con Cangrejo – Dungeness Crab, Jasmine Rice, Green Chile, Chicken Skin
Sopa de Chicharron – Asparagus, Ricotta, Spring Garlic, Radish, Pork Rind
Pozole de Abulon – Abalone and Hominy Stew, Brassicas, Meyer Lemon, Olive Oil
Sopa de Crema – Ocean Trout, Cultured Cream, English Peas, Potato, Caviar
Birria de Cordero – Lamb Loin and Neck, Fava Bean, Coffee, Turnip, Lime
Carnitas de Tocino – Sweet Braised Bacon, Rio Zape Beans, Grilled Cabbage, Mandarinquat
Burnt Strawberry Atole
Already on my culinary radar even before Carlo Salgado was named to Food & Wine’s list of Best New Chefs, dinner at Taco Maria was originally slated to be a five person affair, but when two friends miscalculated the drive-time to Orange County our party was suddenly cut to three – our trio taking the opportunity to exchange al fresco seating for a large four-top in full view of a kitchen turning out the sort of Mexican cuisine I imagine few have experienced to date.
Interestingly located amidst an outdoor shopping center focused on home décor and modernist design with local vendors showing their goods at small booths surrounding “The OC Mix” center court, Taco Maria is nothing short of a work of passion, and named after the Chef’s Mother with a prix-fixe menu of four courses with options at each for a mere $65 everything from the ingredients to the inspiration behind each plate is the very definition of ‘culinart arts,’ the complexity of each dish matched only by its appeal to the eye and flavors that challenge as well as delight.
Small in size and high in demand, a good thing for the restaurant but perhaps not for diners as service did at times feel rushed, the meal began with a trio of canapés that wakened the palate with their diversity and opting to approach the menu so that all eight plates could be sampled a first course of beet salad set beside enchiladas immediately showed a strong hand for balance, the former matching notes of earth to citrus and heated aromatics while the rolled tortilla beneath green sauce was a chlorophyll tinged ode to umami as huitlacoche’s signature flavor tickled the palate in each bite.
Moving briskly to soup beside porridge, the later apparently becoming a bit of a ‘signature’ though frequently changed up due to the seasonality of ingredients, it can only be said that while the vibrant potage was indeed quite tasty with more asparagus flavor than anything offered on Maude’s monthly menu the night before there is undoubtedly a reason why the Arroz has received such acclaim, each bite offering something slightly different from that before it with plenty of picked crab showing its diverse flavor profile, at times acting as a sweet foil to chiles while otherwise offering an oceanic tinge to perfectly cooked rice dotted with bits of crispy skin.
Increasing in size, and in complexity, with each progressive course the third round featured anything but the ‘same ol’ pozole as tender abalone found itself swimming in a brilliant green broth of mustard greens and griddled hominy lightly kissed by acid plus something slightly sweet, and served as the alternative to moist yet flaky trout over cultured cream with peas and caviar one would be hard pressed to determine which dish was superior – a decision from which we were fortunately spared as there was more than enough of each to go around.
Aware that dessert is ‘modest,’ despite the Chef’s training in pastry, the final proper course of the evening featured two substantial cuts of protein bathed in broth and although one in our group generally does not favor lamb this was again a situation where no bite was less than inspired and delicious, the thick cut of belly braised until the fat had just melded to muscle while the lamb was tender and funky in a dark pool of reduced stock with bitters and acid somewhat harkening a mole as coffee replaced cocoa in a most surprising way.
Treated last to a warm cup of strawberry scented cornmeal cream that reminded me of tapioca pudding that had not yet set, it was with the bill paid that Chef Salgado stepped away from his kitchen to thank us for coming in, and exactly as humble as many have described the youthful looking 35 year old OC native one can only assume the accolades will continue to arrive – a return for brunch or some of the tacos perfected during his time in a food truck will no doubt find their way into a future trip…particularly should he opt to put those well-trained pastry skills back on display.
http://www.tacomaria.com/
