Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare [2,] Las Vegas NV

Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare

The Dream – Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut Champagne, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Preserved Hibiscus

Iced Tea

Wheat, Ciabatta, Baguette with Salted Butter from Normandy

Calamaretti Wild Caught with Lemon

Red Mullet with Caper and Olives over Frisee, Sicilian Amberjack with Roasted Radicchio and Anchovy Sauce

Pasticcio di Fegatini d’Anatra – Silky Duck Liver Mousse, Brandy, Marsala, Bay Leaf, Butter with Brioche Points

Crustacean Duo – Imperial Langoustine and Slipper Lobster with Roasted Garlic Butter

Raviolo di Ricotta con Caciotta Toscana – Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Ravioli, Tuscan Pecorino Cheese, Marsala Wine Glaze / Gnocchi di Patate con Fonduta di Pomodoro – Potato Gnocchi, Creamy Tomato Sauce, Butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano

Risotto ai Frutti di Mare – Risotto, Scallops, Shrimp, Lobster, Clams, Crab, Cuttlefish, Octopus / Lasagnette con Ragu di Crostacei – Rags of Pasta, Lobster, Shrimp, Crab, White Wine, Tomato

San Pietro – Roasted over Zucchini with Salmoriglio (Olive Oil, Garlic, Parsley, Oregano, Lemon,) Cruda (Tomatoes, Arugula, Garlic, Red Onion, Olive Oil, Red Wine Vinegar,) Agrumi (Sicilian Citrus, Orange, Lemon, Olive Oil)

Tasting of Gelati, Sorbetti, Granita – Moscato, Pineapple, Blood Orange, Raspberry, Lemon, Apricot, Black Currant, Coconut, Mango, Zabaglione, Chocolate, Pistachio, Amarena Cherry, Giaduja, Torrone, Dark Chocolate, Vanilla, Espresso

Double Espresso on Ice and Moscato

Tahitian Vanilla Bean Semifreddo, Dried Figs in Red Wine, Bitter Chocolate Shavings

Ligurian Lemon Cake, Rosemary Gelato, Sweet Balsamic Syrup

Warm Chocolate Banana Budino, Passion Fruit Pearls, Banana Gelato

Chocolate-Olive Oil Spuma

Baba Al Rhum with White Chocolate Cream

Last visited in 2005, under unique circumstances with people who’d rarely splurge in such a space, the only thing that had precluded a return to Paul Bartolotta’s eponymous Ristorante di Mare was the continuous onslaught of newer or ‘trendier’ options, but returning with friend who, shockingly, also had overlooked the restaurant for more than two years one simply wonders why such a gem is so infrequently cited as one of the city’s true destinations to dine.

Recently renovated, now with light whites brightening spaces that once felt more formal, and managed by a gentleman named Warren Richards who went so far as to set up an unannounced Skype with Chef Bartolotta, who was visiting in Italy, for my friend, dining at the Ristorante di Mare still revolves around a selection of fishes and crustaceans sold by price per 100grams and although a la carte pricing is admittedly quite daunting, the option is also available for one of three ‘family style’ tastings – the journey presented to our table a slightly augmented nine-course affair in part selected by Mr. Richards and partly on request, a few fine wines as well as a cocktail, tea, and coffee rounding out an experience that stretched just over three hours.

Beginning almost entirely empty, and perhaps half-full when the meal ended at 9PM, it was largely with tableside service from Warren plus one of his captains that dinner at Bartolotta progressed and after opening bites of lightly fried squid plus bread that proved absolutely irresistible across several rounds it would not be long before the first of several stunners arrived, the duo of Italian Mullet and roasted Ricciola each simply presented with light saucing over vegetables, the brine of anchovies and bitter radicchio particularly inspiring when paired to the sweet, buttery Amberjack.

Diverting from sea-life momentarily on request, plate three featured a dollop of foie gras rendered almost incomparably light through the utilization of butter, booze, plus plenty of technique and slowly savoring each bite trying to recall a better presentation of duck liver in recent memory it was in the subsequent course that the restaurant’s tableside treasure chest truly showed its importance to the experience, both the enormous langoustines and slipper lobster that had been alive just moments prior showing the sort of quality rarely seen on either coast, let alone at the center of a valley without a drop of saltwater in sight.

Again venturing back to the bounty of land for the first of two pasta duos, Bartolotta certainly lived up to its Italian inspirations with both the delicate potato dumplings as well as the cheese ravioli draped in a veil of Pecorino and buttery wine glaze, yet as good as both the small portions were, neither could live up to the quality of a subsequent course of seafood slanted primi, the inky risotto a briny yet creamy composition while the signature ‘rags’ tasted like a textbook cioppino with just enough acid from the tomatoes to balance the fresh crustaceans with hints of herbs and wine lingering on the finish.

Self-selecting a still-blinking San Pietro from the glass case as the culmination of savories, course seven saw the roasted John Dory deftly plated tableside over lightly roasted zucchini and although edges proved ever so slightly parched the center was rich, moist, and absolutely indulgent while a trio of sauces served to silence any talk of over-cooking, the Cruda and Agrumi equally well adapted to the white flesh with the later equally delectable drizzled on wheat bread of which far too much had already been had.

At this point declining an inquiry as to whether anything else was desired to be added a la carte, it was undoubtedly a bit of showing off that saw eighteen of the restaurant’s twenty-four housemade iced delicacies delivered as a palate cleanser to trump any experienced to date, and although I’d like to say restraint was shown the fact of the matter is that little more than a few puddles returned to the kitchen – only the mango proving less than a spot on interpretation of the ingredient’s natural flavor while the Coconut, Amarena Cherry, Black Currant, Pistachio, and Dark Chocolate were all amongst the city’s best frozen bites.

Sipping a sweet Moscato while desserts were readied, and later ordering up an iced Americano to pair with the sweets, it was largely a Chef’s selection that rounded out the evening and having previously been underwhelmed by Italian desserts throughout much of the city the quality of the quintet at Bartolotta proved every bit as inspired as the savorites, the Lemon Cake and Semifreddo each a great option for those favoring fruit-based flavors while the baba and spuma were rich and traditional with bold flavors amidst exceptionally light textures, the budino undoubtedly the heaviest of the finale with rich chocolate pudding finding its foil in sweet passion fruit plus one more quenelle of gelato.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Self assured that its patrons are willing to pay a premium for the sort of seafood and exquisite execution rarely seen anywhere outside of the gastronomic temples located in coastal cities, Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare is every bit as memorable today as any restaurant in Las Vegas and taking into account the sourcing, setting, and service should undoubtedly be talked about more than it is as one of the city’s very best.

RECOMMENDED: Imperial Langoustines, Slipper Lobster, Pasticcio di Fegatini d’Anatra, Baba al Rhum, Warm Chocolate Banana Budino.

AVOID: Filling up on Bread, and perhaps the Mango Sorbet.

TIP: Offering the fishes and shellfish on a rotating basis depending on what is most fresh with prices ranging $18-$30 per 3-oz, bone-in/shell on, those interested in specific selections or preparations are encouraged to call in advance, though the langoustines – whose source remains a well guarded secret – are always available in various sizes with costs ranging $30-$45 each.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.wynnlasvegas.com/Dining/FineDining/Bartolotta