Au Petit Bouchon “Chez Georges”
Vin Rouge
Crispy Pork
Chitterling Sausage
Warm Bread
Œufs cocotte au St Marcellin
Tripes au vin blanc
Quenelle de brochet aux écrevisses
Tarte Apricot
Considered a local gem, but often discussed by visitors as a “true” Lyonnaise bouchon despite its location on the edge of the touristy 1st, tiny Au Petit Bouchon “Chez Georges” is the sort of place where a sign reading “Complet” often hangs long before dinner begins, yet having planned far in advance in order to assure a seat the experience itself was one of mixed feelings – the cuisine itself universally excellent while service unfortunately made little attempt to welcome foreigners, even going so far as to unapologetically attempt to rip me off twice.
Originally booked for Friday at 19h00, but arriving fifteen minutes early to the aforementioned sign and opening the door to find the three staff members enjoying family meal, it was with to stern look that I enter and apologizing as best as I could in French I was nonetheless invited to sit, the chef talking loudly and finishing his story before retiring to the kitchen – the lone server and sous left to do the cleaning.
Obviously identified by my language, the handwritten ledger verifying the booking made by E-mail, it was while browsing specials that the menu was presented , and with no prix fixe even suggested in the English iteration despite prominent placement on the French version and website an inquiry to such was met with resistance – the bill presented later again found to exhibit a la carte prices, plus the cost of a full bottle of house Red when only a lone 25cl pour was drank.
No doubt an intimate space, and one that gets both hot and loud as the 24-seats fill and remain that way as the nigh, and rolls on, dining at Chez George begins with a small basket of pork cracklings present on arrival and soon treated to bread and a slice of house sausage the attention to detail was readily apparent, each bite replete with light spicing that helped to tame the otherwise rich sapor.
Amused when a three-part order including one prix-fixe plus an additional plate was deemed “too much for just you,” but happy to receive a demi-portion of one dish at a slightly reduced cost at the suggestion of the chef it was with signature Œufs cocotte au St Marcellin that the menu started off and with two golden eggs centered in a bowl of cream and cheese the results were absolutely indulgent, the makeshift fondue when mixed absolutely delicious on its own, and even better when sopped into the crusty warm bread.
Having somehow missed out on tripe to this point in the trip, round two saw a half-plate of supple offal arrive in a sauce of white wine, and as much as the dish may prove an acquired taste the version served at the bouchon is amongst the best I’ve tasted to date, the honeycombed ribbons meltingly tender at the center with a top lightly crisped by the oven and plenty of nuance added by potatoes and sauteed onions.
Not nearly as full as the server would have thought, it was after some delay and chat with English-friendly neighbors that the final savory would arrive, and having already sampled through many Quenelles during my stay in Central France I’m happy to say that the version at Chez Georges was one of the most hearty in the city, the flavor of pike rather light amidst the eggy omelet while the sauce was creamy and substantial with shellfish, each balanced bite compelling another without ever threatening to overwhelm or make one feel stuffed.
Moving onward to desserts, the items all prepared earlier in the day due to the limitations of a tiny kitchen, it was with some regret that I declined the apple dumpling in favor of an Apricot Tart, but with the sharply flavored fruit presented atop a custard-like clafoutis with just a touch of char there was really nothing to feel sorry about at all in my decision, though perhaps ordering another savory or a few more desserts would have been a worthy endeavor, not only because everything was so good, but also to make a point.
http://www.aupetit-bouchon-chez-georges.fr/