Hatchet Hall
Coconut Mojito – Angostura White Rum, Wray & Nephew Rum, Mint, Coconut, Lime, Tiki Bitters / In Fashioned – Country ham Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Miracle Mile Redeye and Pecan Bitters
Benne Yeast Rolls, Honey Butter, Sea Salt
Sliced Tomatoes, Pigeon Peas, Aged Cheddar, Herbs
Fried Blue Crab Claws, Dill Pickle Mayonnaise
Wood Grilled Octopus, Runner Beans, Treviso, Lemon Aioli, Salsa Verde
Rosemary Skewered Wood Grilled Sweetbreads, Chanterelle, Charred Lemon
Grilled Baby Corn, Good Butter, Sea Salt, Black Pepper
Ember Roasted Beets, Crème Fraiche, Walnut, Dill, Date Vinegar
Wood Grilled Peas and Barnett Pork Chop, Brown Butter Maple Jus, Charred Figs
Skillet Fried Quail, Stone Fruit, Basil, Honey, Black Pepper
Grilled Carrots, Warm Honey, Chimichurri, Yogurt, Benne
Baked Beans, Sorghum, Smoked Pork Shoulder, Bread Crumbs
Benne and Peach Bread Pudding, Blueberries, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Caramelized Goat Milk Panna Cotta, Dark Chocolate, Crème Fraiche
Coconut Cream Cake, Preserved Rhubarb, Coconut Lime Sherbet
Located in the upscale bungalow-come-lodge style space on West Washington Boulevard that previously housed Waterloo & City, Brian Dunsmoor’s recently launched Hatchet Hall seems to have picked up the hype and style that originally surrounded Hart and the Hunter, and with a small plates menu focused on well-sourced proteins plus the season’s best produce the kitchen is turning out some of the city’s most enthralling farm-to-table cuisine while the crowd itself may be best described as a balance of local hipsters and those looking to ‘see and be seen.’
Larger in size than one would guess from the lot, a two-weeks-in-advance reservation policy rounded out by a communal walk-in table caddy-corner to the well appointed bar while those fancying al fresco dining are invited to enjoy plates on the patio, the arrival of our party of five originally saw hostess attempt to squeeze us in at a four-top on the cusp of the outdoors, but refusing in favor of the communal space an equal amount of cramming was attempted, the removal of two chairs proving a much needed resolution.
Known for the wine list, but also serving up stylish cocktails invigorated by house-infused spirits and several homemade bitters it was with drink orders placed that a young waitress dressed in jeans and a classic rock T-shirt offered her suggestions before taking our order, a total of eleven savories rounded out by three desserts ranging from really good to absolutely exemplary, even the Benne Seed Rolls justifying a few dollars extra with honey butter I’d have gladly slathered on just about any piece of bread eaten to date.
Dividing the menu into sections that the kitchen uses in order to expedite items round-by-round it was after perhaps fifteen minutes that plates began to trickle from the back and starting light before progressing to things more hearty the opening trio of sliced tomatoes, tender octopus, and sweet fried crab claws was an inspiring introduction to flavors that followed, each item manipulated just enough to coax out the maximum amount of flavor with produce often times as good or better than the plate’s central protein.
Frequently featuring notes of smoke or ash with herbs acting to smooth out some of the more poignant flavors imparted by the grill round two offered unctuous sweetbreads and a particularly juicy cut of pork alongside baby corn and blackened beets, the chop undoubtedly a sharable showstopper while the corn was simple perfection, a similar compliment applicable to the late season peas and mushrooms kissed with charred lemon.
Interestingly opting to offer the crunchy fried quail as our final protein, a delicious and substantial bit of bird beneath light buttermilk breading, it was with two more sides that the savories would conclude and although some might scoff at the idea of upscale baked beans the smooth emulsion was chock-a-block full of smoked pork with just a touch of maple, the carrots equally pleasant with heat and sweet in delicate balance.
Moving into desserts, an area in which the restaurant has frequently been reported to shine, it was in three items ordered in double that the meal would end and although the panna cotta as well as the coconut cake were indeed quite nice, neither came even close to the high standard set by bread pudding made from the Dunsmoor’s own Benne seed rolls, the flavors of grilled peaches and stewed blueberries melding amidst the custard as rich vanilla ice cream slowly soaked in from overhead.
http://www.hatchethallla.com/
