Rivea
Grissini with Tapenade
Marinated Seabream, Citrus
Focaccia di Recco
Baguette, Semolina Loaf, Olive Focaccia with Olive Oil
Sage/Parmesan Cheese Potato Gnocchi
John Dory baked like on the Riviera
Creamy Polenta
Roasted Duck Breast, Turnips, Bigarade Sauce
Limoncello Baba
Cappucino Cup with Chocolate Brioche
Our Traditional Zuccotto
Shortbread Nutella Sandwiches
Rarely worried about rebranding, or even ripping a concept apart in order to completely reinvent a space, it was 7:30 Saturday night when I ascended the Delano’s glass elevator to meet another local physician for dinner at Rivea, the recently opened Alain Ducasse still bearing some semblance to the former Michelin-starred MiX while the connected Skyfall Lounge is far more welcoming than it once was, though still quite underpopulated despite the dramatic views.
Imported from Saint-Tropez and London, Rivea arrives in Las Vegas as a swanky small-plates concept not dissimilar to Bellagio’s offensively priced Lago and although the offerings here trend somewhat more French than Italian the menu feels a bit precious, the appetizers mostly trumping $10 for less than two mouthfuls while more substantial mains hover around forty dollars each.
Still dripping bubbles of glass from its center, but now turned breezy with seaside blues befitting the Mediterranean cuisine crafted by Chef Bruno Riou, it was at tiny window-side two-top that the two of us were sat despite a dining room less than 10% full and although service was a bit overbearing at first it did not take long before the jeans-and-suspenders with Chuck Taylor’s-clad staff adapted to answer questions without overselling, though a few fumbles such as empty glasses and misdelivered plates did subsequently occur.
Still a stunning space with high ceilings helping to dissipate noise while 180-degree views of the city remain unparalleled for a fine-dining establishment on the Strip, it was in conversation about restaurants moreso than business that time was passed and with two rounds of bread service each proving well crafted while the anchovy infused tapenade was boldly briny and addictive it was not long before a duo of appetizers arrived, the $14 crudo a bit spendy for such a tiny portion, no matter how “fresh,” while the creamy cheese and cracker flatbread was a total disappointment when compared to versions at Chicago’s Davanti Enoteca or Mario Batali’s chi SPACCA.
Citing influences from “the food markets of Provence and Italy,” but trending more Central France with a delicious duck whose skin met toasted meringue to double down on crispiness while sweetness played off turnips and a savory brown sauce, those looking for lighter flavors would be well advised to order the $42 John Dory whose flesh comes across delicate yet moist and buttery, a sizable side of polenta smooth and creamy while the potato gnocchi are almost buoyant in their aromatic levity.
Outed somewhere along the way from appetizers to entrees as two people more than a little familiar with Las Vegas’ dining scene, it was only after our server informed us that the signature Zuccotto could not be prepared in a smaller portion that the large cake-for-four nonetheless arrived tableside compliments of the Chef and having additionally ordered both the Limoncello-soaked Baba and the espresso-infused panna-cotta atop granita the only real question was order of indulgence, for my money the citrusy take on a Ducasse Classic almost as good as the Monte Carlo original while the slowly melting brandy semifreddo certainly warranted gathering a group to enjoy it with.
THREE STARS: Open for only a few weeks and still lacking for both patrons and a cost proportionate to the portions or quality of preparation of several plates it will be interesting to see how Las Vegas responds to yet another rebranded celebrity chef import, particularly in a largely unadvertised space that previously shuttered despite a similar name above the door and some of the most excellent views on The Strip.
RECOMMENDED: Entrees including the Duck and John Dory are far more fulfilling and creative than the overpriced small plates while both the Baba and Zuccatto show signs of a pastry kitchen that remains strong.
AVOID: Both the seabream and flimsy foccaccia could have easily been taken in one mouthful by scooping the former with a spoon and folding the second. The brioche served alongside the cappucino cup was also woeful, the chocolate a single solidified piece the size of a stick of gum.
TIP: Although attached, Rivea’s hostess stand is best accessed from The Delano lobby elevators while Skyfall is better experienced by the all-glass 64 story ascent near the Michael Jackson theater at Mandalay Bay.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://delanolasvegas.com/dining/rivea.aspx#
