Rollover Doughnuts
Orange Glaze and Chopped Pistachios
Maple Glaze and Candied Bacon
Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough with Salty Brown Butter Glaze
Apple Fritter
Coffee Cake Doughnut filled with Coffee Custard, Dipped in Vanilla Bean Icing, Cinnamon Walnut Streusel
Champagne Doughnut filled with Champagne Custard, Topped with Champagne Frosting, Fresh Strawberry
Admittedly a fan of neither hot dogs nor foodtrucks it still strikes this writer as odd that Shortleash Hot Dogs was visited during a 15 month stay in Phoenix, but coming away fairly impressed at the time a return to the city shows the brand to have expanded substantially, several trucks now joined by something far more befitting my proclivities than encased meat in the form of fried dough.
Playing off the “dog” theme, patrons actually encouraged to send in photos of their furry friends in sponsorship of specials, it was just after 8am that I approached the small Vernon Avenue kiosk housing Rollover Doughnuts and greeted by a pair of friendly young woman I was sadly informed that the savory oft-cited “Bear” was no longer available due to ‘lack of interest,’ a half-dozen other options selected at the $11 discounted price.
Truly a “cheaper by the dozen” – or half dozen – space, doughnuts usually billed $2.00-$2.50 each, it was at a stone table nearby that seating was found for indulgence, items spread out and the New Year special “Champagne” offering glimpses of brilliance as the springy brioche pocketed rich cream custard beneath vibrant Strawberry glaze.
Attempting to taste in mild to bold fashion, a light ring of citrus topped in chopped pistachios strongly resembling a cannoli next to grace my tongue, it was unfortunate that the fritter was anything but a typical crunchy apple experience, the texture closer to a bready pull-apart without a lot of flavor beyond cinnamon to be found.
Back on track with Maple Bacon, the nearly ubiquitous modern-classic better than most as a result of natural tasting frosting and a hint of woody smoke, the best bite of the morning was next found in Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough, both the base and frosting studded with dark chocolate that helped to anchor Salty Brown Butter Glaze.
Impressed to this point it was with “Coffee Cake” that the Rollover Doughnut tasting did end and although rarely a ‘fan’ of filled options the execution was every bit on-point with the fruity version prior, custard the flavor of lightly sweetened espresso quickly flooding the palate and dissipating slowly to nutty notes amidst subtle vanilla bean.
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