The Ashby Inn, Paris VA

The Gist: http://www.ashbyinn.com/

The Why: RJ Cooper recommended it, along with Sushi Taro and Little Serow, as the spots I should not miss on this trip to DC. Considered by some to be every bit as lovely as another Inn – the one at Little Washington – and featuring a menu that struck me as a unique balance of Southern and French with touches of “down home” and “mg” it seemed like a safe bet and with the location actually quite convenient driving from Columbus to Clifton plus Chef Tarver King more than willing to craft the dinner tasting at lunch I made a reservation…and arrived nearly an hour early to explore the grounds, the hotel, and the ‘town’ surrounding.

The food and Drink: One cocktail, five course dinner tasting (requested at lunch), complimentary bread, palate cleanser, mignardises, and amuse/canapés.

GINger Tonic – Sunset Hills Virginia Gin, Local Honey, Ginger, Fever Tree Tonic: After a 4:00am departure from Ohio and plenty of coffee along the way it didn’t take much convincing to get me to have a drink and with all the beverages hand-made from local ingredients this was excellent – the ginger/honey spices serving to balance the booze while the infused tonic added an overarching herbal tone.

“Snacks” – Puffed Tandori Spice Swordfish Crackers with Greek Yogurt, Tempura Fiddlehead Ferns with Tarragon Aoli, Fermented Lemon Hummus with Mustard Cracker, Breakfast Radishes with Green Tea Salt, Bacon and Cashew Brittle: The meal started with a quintet of bites and running the gamut from sweet to savory and raw to fried each could have stood on its own on a progressive tasting like that at Volt or Rogue. Not particularly a fan of mustard I began with the cracker and moved through each option finding the early season fiddleheads particularly impressive while the swordfish crackers were essentially cracklins’ loaded with umami. As to the brittle – praise it out loud and end up with a doggie bag to go.

Baguette, Bacon Brioche, Sweetened Local Butter with Fleur de Sel: I’m a bread basket connoisseur – for someone who eats no bread during their day-to-day life I’m sure this seems odd but it also makes the basket all the more rewarding when well done…and this was awesome. Paired with butter from “a farm just over there” (as he pointed to a barn across the green) per my server Elijah both selections were warm from the oven…literally it took them 15 minutes to make more when I asked…and with great crunch to the baguette it was the brioche that truly wowed as the smoky bread was literally stuffed with tender belly bacon and just a bit of sweetness. The hog? Also from just down the road – slow roasted and featured elsewhere on the daily menu.

Grilled Asparagus Vichyssoise, Green Lip Mussels, Sour Cream, Peppercorn, Capers, White Soy: Generally not keen on cold soups or capers this dish was well outside my comfort zone and although I cannot say I ‘loved’ it, I certainly did appreciate the chilly balance of earth and sea while the soy and a drizzle of dill oil added tableside brightened everything, lingering on the finish.

Tilefish in Cornmeal Crust, Split Pea, Smoked Radish, Buttermilk, Bacon Crumble, Kale: Presented as a dish “the chef is really proud of” and laid gently over honey roasted turnips this dish was the savory highlight of the afternoon – very “down home” but at the same time entirely well conceptualized as each ingredient created an experience greater than the sum of its parts. Buttery and lean with the only salt coming from the bacon there was plenty of smoke, a bit of sweet, and aromatics abound while the subtle fish was never overwhelmed.

Lamb on a stone, Charred Broccoli, Toasted Pecorino Espuma, Bulgur, Cucumber Aigre Doux: All about showmanship here and a similar presentation to what I experienced during my first trip to Alinea this DIY dish served up raw local lamb and a hearth-stone over Rosemary Seasalt allowing the diner to bathe in aromatics while the lamb cooked. Three ounces, all lean, and recommended to rest on the stone as you count to thirty this was expectedly nice but it was the pecorino espuma that truly captured my attention – as beautiful a use of foam as you’ll ever see.

Meadow Creek Mountaineer Cheese, Fried Coppa, Hickory Oats, Honey Malt Gastrique, Local Greens from Cedar Springs: Reading my palate at this point it would seem there were three composed cheese courses on the menu and chef sent out this soft, raw cow’s milk selection on a charred wooden block. Rarely fussed by composed cheese courses compared to a carte I simply couldn’t help but be impressed this given the ample serving I found particular enjoyment mixing and matching bites.

Hot and Cold Fennel Tea with Lemon Aroma: More show here, a large wooden vessel with dry ice was ladled with lemon balm infused water at tableside and gurgling and bubbling the aroma filled the air while a shotglass – half panna cotta/half liquid – was presented. Smooth, savory, and clean it was a great transitional piece and a bit of fun, as well.

Cocoa Brioche, Salted Butter Ice Cream, Namelaka Mousse, White Chocolate Powder, Dark Chocolate Crumbs: If I have ten better restaurant desserts than this in 2012 I’ll consider it a great year for sweets, though in this case it was not the “sweet” that made an impact so much as the deft use of salt and bitter tones to serve as its balance. Again exquisitely presented and featuring a nearly ganache-dense chocolate bread pudding at its base this was a dish of exploration – each bite a different ratio of temperature and texture, savory and sweet.

Sweet Sesame Meringue, Strawberry Pate a Fruit, “Poke Poke”: Seemingly suspended in air the final bites of the meal were all good, particularly the last – house made spun sugar candy dipped in dark chocolate, the texture almost taffy like.

The Verdict: The location alone of Ashby Inn makes it a destination meal but the food and the setting truly make it a destination. Recommended by my friend, Chef RJ Cooper of Rogue24 there are many who consider The Ashby Inn a ‘poor man’s’ Inn at Little Washington but having experienced both I would disagree in terms of all but (maybe) the setting. Certainly both kitchens are putting out excellent food, but to me the food at The Inn at Little Washington was old and although delicious, a bit ‘fuddy’ while that at Ashby was equally fresh, more dynamic, and served with just a bit of whimsy. Pair such a meal with the lovely patio and serene setting plus service without pretense and I’d say The Ashby Inn is actually a smart man’s Inn at Little Washington – and when you leave there is more money in your wallet.