Sugarmill
Donut Sundae – Fresh Brioche Donut / Salty Caramel Ice Cream / Warm Caramel Sauce / Chocolate Sauce / Candied Nuts
Red Velvet Slice – 3-Layer Buttermilk Red Velvet Cake / Cream Cheese Frosting / Vanilla Buttercream / Candied Pecans / Butter Pecan Ice Cream
Butter Pecan and Salty Caramel Ice Cream
Coffee Macaron
Pistachio Macaron
Chocolate Chip Cookie
Owned by Troy Guard in Denver’s RiNo Neighborhood, Sugarmill is described as “A Place Where Sweet and Savory Meet,” and although a part of TAG Restaurant Group the Three Meal space maintains a decidedly independent feel under the current team as the open kitchen provides ample entertainment by allowing guests to watch the team create each plate.
Narrow and long with patterned wallpaper and a slick bar to one side as wood floors plus tables for two-to-six line the right side of the room, arrival at Sugarmill brings diners face to face with a pasty case featuring selections that rotate by both time of day and season, a two o’clock arrival one one hand seeing things in a state of transition while on the other allowing a guest to watch the team hard at work on their craft.
Well priced and surprisingly diverse, the savory menu actually much larger than the one on which the concept is themed, lunch desserts are somewhat more limited than those at dinner but still offering a half dozen the question posed is what to order, the one-man waitstaff seemingly distracted and only willing to say “Everything is Great.”
Unfortunately told the “Noahsphere” of former Chef Noah French is a dinner-only off-menu request it was instead in simple favorites that Sugarmill experience would unfold and served as a duo both the Donut Sundae as well as the pricey Red Velvet Slice were perfectly competent, if not ‘wowing,’ the former definitely hot from the frier beneath a quickly melting ball of Ice Cream while the triple-layer Cake upped the ante by adding buttermilk only to be held back a bit by using Vanilla Buttercream that compromised the smooth texture of traditional Cream Cheese.
Mistakenly given two extra scoops of Ice Cream because I’d inquired about what was served atop the Doughnut, both elegant and creamy with the Butter Pecan a “best of” sort as restrained sweetness was imparted by finely chopped nuts, it was with these stricken from the bill that a few items to-go were selected, the macarons each crisp giving way to creamy filling while the Chocolate Chip Cookie featured several different types in brown butter, golden around the edges with a center just-set.
http://sugarmilldesserts.com/
