Frasca Food & Wine
2014 Frico Bianco
Carcade – Hibiscus, Lime Juice, Cocktail Punk Cumin Bitters, Simple Syrup, Vanilla, Cinnamon Sugar Rim, Handmade Hibiscus Flower Ice Cubes
Rustic Wheat with Whipped Butter
Baccala – Salted Grouper, Filone, Trout Roe, Lime
Apsarago – While Asparagus, Egg Yolk, Pumpernickle, Miner’s Lettuce
Riso – Diver Scallop, Arugula, Orange
Gnocchi – Rye Flour, Quail Ragu, Cauliflower
Frico Caldo – Potatoes, Onions, Montasio
Blecs – Buckwheat Flour, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Montasio
Cervo – Broken Arrow Ranch Venison Leg, Polenta, Kale
Sirk Vinegar Sorbet – Sea Salt, Olive Oil, Pink Peppercorn
Monte Blanco – Chestnut, Crème Fraiche, Cognac, White Chocolate
Torta Di Gelato – Salted Caramel Gelato, Amarena Cherry, Pecan, Banana
Meyer Lemon Custard Tart – Poppyseed Crust
Long residing on my United States ‘must visit’ list, in fact the eldest member of a list that has changed frequently over the five years past, it was finally on February 23, 2016 that I sat down to dinner at Frasca Food and Wine, fears of building the restaurant up too much immediately proving folly from the moment I walked through the door until a kitchen tour at the end.
Considered by most to be the best restaurant in Colorado, and easily the most acclaimed including a James Beard Award for Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and mentions for partner Bobby Stuckey in the realms of management, service and wine, Frasca sits on Boulder’s popular Pearl Street and with a focus on Northern Italy anchored in locally sourced products diners are treated to a minimalist dining room with rich woods and light music, the staff incredibly accommodating while walking a fine line between formal and friend.
Inviting diners to experience the menu in any way they choose, every item offered a la carte while a four-course prix fixe and Degustation seem the more popular choice, it was with little indecision that the tasting was selected and adding three supplements the meal progressed smoothly, every plate satisfying while at the same time leaving me wishing I could have just one more bite.
Admittedly fortunate that the night’s menu seemed almost serendipitous in appealing to my predilections, the opening crisp of Baccala only flawed by the fact that I would have preferred it in a large steaming crock as the citrus played brilliantly off the Roe, it bears mention that although wine is certainly a focus of the restaurant those choosing not to imbibe are offered a few mocktails or the choice to let the bar craft something to their liking, the “Carcade” one of the most elegant beverages seen recently in a restaurant with Lime and rich Herbs encircled by Cinnamon Sugar as handmade Ice of Hibiscus slowly melted imparting a light floral edge.
Serving only one style of bread, the Rustic Wheat great for soaking up sauces though one must be mindful of eating too much given the quality of locally sourced butter, tasting continued with early season While Asparagus atop a slick of Egg Yolk, the flavors of Pumpernickle and Miner’s Lettuce allowing for the natural notes of each to be experienced solo or in concert with each of the flavors ringing loud and clear.
Arriving tableside to prepare course three, before serving the first supplement next, “Riso” featured smooth Arborio rice mixed with sliced Diver Scallops and chopped Arugula as Orange Zest added just it’s essence, a similar short term linger offered by Rye flour used in Gnocchi topped in rich Quail Ragu and Cauliflower florets.
Perhaps the only “signature” never to change on Frasca’s menu “Frico Caldo” was inserted in the menu here, and although typically served as a shared appetizer the crispy disc of diced Potatoes with Onions and stretchy Montasio was equally well utilized before “Blecs,” the uneven drapes of Buckwheat grounded in Black Trumpet Mushrooms and the same Northeastern mountain Cheese.
Locally sourcing Venison for Secondi, the lean meat served with the lightest of sears atop a bed of polenta with crispy Kale, palates were cleansed in a manner that should make all restaurants reconsider their approach via quenelle of Sirk Vinegar Sorbet, the texture unexpectedly like velvet with light tingle on the finish.
Unable to resist adding a dessert to the experience, the pastry team at Frasca not only well-regarded but also given more real estate in the kitchen than most I’ve seen, Torta Di Gelato was served as Liliana Myers’ take on Baked Alaska, and although the small cake was indeed delicious it simply could not compete with the Per Se and Daniel trained Chef’s “Monte Blanco,” a melting chocolate ball that beautifully marries roasted Chestnuts to Crème Fraiche in a warm bath of Cognac infused White Chocolate.
Truly a world class restaurant, even the tiny lemon tartlet offered as a petit four exceedingly well crafted with an egg custard texture beneath a shattering bruleed top, Frasca Food & Wine more than warrants the praise heaped upon it, even that leaving it underrated in many regards.
www.frascafoodandwine.com
