Rioja
Sourdough Lavender, Goat Cheese Rosemary Biscuit, Ginger Pine Nut Whole Wheat Roll with Salted Butter
French Onion Consomme, Caramelized Onion-Gruyere Ravioli, Gruyere Lace, Thyme
Mocha Roasted Beets, Pecans, Puffed Wild Rice, Vanilla Coulis, Dried Cherries, Red Shiso, Brebirousse d’Argental Cheese
Braised Lamb Rotolo, Housemade Lamb Belly Sausage, Cassoulet, Pickled Red Onion, Brioche Crouton, Celery Leaf, Carrot
Parmesan Gnocchi, Walnut Cream, Grapes, St. Agur Blue Cheese, Sage, Red Verjus Gastrique
Beignets, Sweet Goat Cheese and Black Mission Fig Filling, Ruby Port Wine Reduction
Pistachio and Pears, Pistachio Financier, Frozen Pistachio Mousse, Marsala Poached Pears, Vanilla Anglaise, Anise-Marsala Reduction, Fennel Pollen
Highly acclaimed amongst local dining circles, no doubt in part to the James Beargoat d Award bestowed upon Chef Jennifer Jasinski in 2013 as Best Chef Southwest, it was on the recommendation of several including those at Work & Class as well as Racca’s Pizzeria that a reservation was made at Rioja, the painful parking situation and passive service admittedly unexpected while the food itself was every bit as good as the rumors suggest.
Located in upscale Larimer Square, several national chains blending with local restaurants and bars, Rioja is best described as Seasonal Mediterranean in approach and with tasteful decorating, a bar made for mingling plus two rooms adjoined by a central walkway the flow of the space feels brisk while gentle lighting leaves wooden surfaces looking sexy and sleek.
Offering much of the dinner menu at lunch, a similar situation witnessed several days later at Euclid Hall, diners are encouraged to listen to several specials before finalizing their order, the daily venison burger admittedly quite tempting though personal interests tilted more to small plates, others around me seemingly holding the “Chronic” Chicken Sandwich in high regard.
No doubt a place where suits are prominent, “regulars” greeted by waiters by name with amuses served selectively by the kitchen in a fairly obvious and discriminatory way, bread service features several housemade options the with a tiny cheese biscuit and roll of ginger and pine nuts both particularly memorable, though obtaining a second helping was rivaled only by water refills in terms of difficulty to obtain.
Deciding to dine in three courses, a half-dozen items served with pacing that was thankfully dictated by return of previous plates to the back, round one consisted of an elegant beet salad tinged in mocha with fruit and cheese balancing earth tones while a non-traditional take on French Onion Soup used ravioli in a clean consomee to replicate the classic in terms of flavor, though certainly not in texture.
As proud of their technique as they are of sourcing – noodles, sauces and sausages all made on site, half-orders of pasta are a welcome conceit to those of smaller appetites and happy to take full advantage in terms of creating a tasting one would be hard pressed to decide between tender gnocchi dressed in grapes, blue cheese and walnuts or the roll of braised Lamb Belly Sausage atop makeshift “Cassoulet” consisting of Pickled Red Onion, Brioche Crumbles, Celery and Carrot.
Known as a place for desserts, longtime pastry chef Eric Dale’s seasonal variations often amongst the most visually appealing in The Mile High City, “special” tables seem likely to end meals with complimentary Goat Cheese and Fig Beignets that were ordered and found to be pleasant though not “amazing” while the server-recommended “Pistachio and Pears” more than made up for any disappointment, the $10 plate a mix n’ match thrill ride with Pistachio Cake and Mousse each replicating the nut’s flavor perfectly alongside Marsala Poached Pears with light licorice notes well matched to Vanilla Anglaise and Fennel Pollen.
http://www.riojadenver.com/
