Avec Nous
Warm Baguette and Butter
French 75 – Gin, Absinthe, Meyer Lemon
Charcuterie Degustation – Pork Shank Rillettes, Bresaola, Lardo, Duck Prosciutto, Housemade Mustard, Pickles, Pickled Mushrooms, Rhubarb
Escargot – Wild Burgundy Snails, Persillade Butter, Bread Crisps
Foie Gras A L’Orange – Grilled Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Local Orange
Sea Scallop – Mushy Broccoli, Turmeric Chermoula, Squid Ink Crisp
Jidori Chicken – Roasted Organic Chicken Breast, Leeks, Hen of the Wood Mushrooms, Parisian Gnocchi, Vidalia Onion
Japanese Style Cold Brew Coffee
Cheese Board – Clothbound Cheddar, Fourme D’Ambert, Tomme de Savoie, Crottin de Chavignol, Morbier, Marcona Almonds, Quince
Amaretto Floating Island – Soft Meringue, Crème Anglaise, Praline
Chocolate & Caramelia Mille-Feuille – Crisp Pastry, Chocolate Mousse
Sugarfina Candy Cart – Champagne Bears, Peach Bellini Gummies,Single Malt Scotch Cordials, Kir Royale Cordials, Sour Watermelon Sugarlips
Arranged through a friend in Las Vegas as a way to see Beverly Hills’ most recently renovated Hotel and Dining Room it was as a guest of the house that I sat down to dinner at Avec Nous by Olivier Quignon on Thursday night, and although service is still working out a few minor issues there is little doubt that the kitchen is ready to challenge diners with a well-culled menu of elegant entrees, desserts and small plates.
Located in Viceroy L’Ermitage on Burton Way, a tour of the property showing no shortage of crystal, polish and posh whether one selects a $650 suite or the $9,000 Presidential space complete with a Den and Treatment Room for massage, Avec Nous lies directly off the main lobby and divided into a beautiful pewter bar alongside the more formal dining space the feel is best described as ‘Bistro by way of the Coast’ – the eighty seat space maintain its intimacy through soft lights and low ceilings without feeling ‘precious’ or pretentious at all.
Serving both breakfast and dinner, the challenge of providing accessible cuisine to hotel guests as well as elegant plates to gourmands something Chef Quignon undoubtedly encountered during a stint in New York with Daniel Boulud, it was with deference to the Kitchen that a nine-plate degustation unfolded under the careful watch of Hotel Manager Nicholas Rimedio and aside from one overcooked scallop the cuisine was mostly remarkable while also trending far lighter than most.
Not the sort of property to cut corners, a Mixology and Beverage Program developed through relationships rooted in Chicago under former heads of Alinea and Charlie Trotter, it was with housemade baguette slices plus a French 75 spritzed in Absinthe that the evening got started and soon receiving a small sample of handcrafted Charcuterie one can tell Chef Quignon is passionate about his craft, the Rillettes and cured Duck shining stars of the board as too were classic Wild Escargot served plump and hefty with garlic from a scalding hot slotted plate.
Citing two celebrities in the dining room, as well as a well-known local restaurateur with serious accolades of his own, Foie Gras could have perhaps been a bit more ornate than the Avec Nous serving atop candied local oranges, though the quality of both the liver and its sear were certainly not for lack.
Acknowledging that most of the plates sent to the table were portioned down for tasting, the $32 list for Scallops usually netting three U-10s, the first served to me unfortunately showed up during a rush that saw service team scrambling and was thus delayed, over-cooked and dropped off without description – a mere mention of the issues seeing another arrive just one course later that was virtually raw beneath the exterior and thus prepared ‘just right’ besides broccoli given an English makeover and a rice cracker with Squid Ink.
Abruptly veering back to his French roots with a flawless Roasted Chicken Breast served with a few tender potato dumplings plus Hen of the Wood Mushrooms and Leeks atop Onions sautéed till clear but not yet caramelized, Chef Olivier smartly followed such richness with a well-sourced plate of cheeses highlighted by Crottin de Chavignol and blocks of Quince Jam.
Having honed in on the Japanese Coldbrew system en route to the restrooms, those favoring boldness in their brew are encouraged to partake and although Avec Nous’ dessert menu is a bit small for my preferences the concept of executing a few things perfectly instead of the “buckshot” approach is embraced here just as it is with savories, the Mille-Feuille a shattering chocolate version while the meringue is made ethereal via hot steam before being floated tableside in housemade Amaretto Crème Anglaise.
Ending several evenings with a cart of imported candies that include boozy truffles as well as watermelon “Sugar Lips” that are bound to make one pucker up, a quick trip through the kitchen shows Quignon and his team to be working in a spotless Modern environment, the Chef already hard at work planning what will thrill guests next.
www.avecnous.com
