Carnevino
St. Germain, Hendrick’s Gin, Simple Syrup, Cucumber
Rosemary Ciabatta, Butter, Lardo
Butter Lettuce – Shaved Radishes, Carrots, Lemon Herb Vinaigrette
Dungeness Crab Crespelle – Ricotta, Asparagus, Lemon, Basil
Artichoke Agnolotti – Ricotta Salata and Lemon
Gnocchi – Green Garlic Pesto and Peas
Striped Bass – Mint Pea Pesto, Lemon, Radish
Sauteed Ramps
2013 Maculan Dindarello Moscato / 2013 Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria DOC
Strawberry Crespelle – Lemon Ricotta and Butterscotch
Bomboloni – Rhubarb and Blueberry Conserva, Crema
Coconut Tart – Coconut Cream, Fresh Berries, Kiwi Sorbet
With weather that ignores the snow and slush of colder months, plus “destination” status and proximity to California that allows for superior ingredients throughout the year, Spring remains a favorite season for many Chefs, locals and travelers, the launch of new menus a signified by descriptions of ramps, fiddleheads and rhubarb – all these things prominent at Carnevino where Chef Nicole Brisson continues to wow a huge room each evening with the sort of precision generally reserved for a much smaller sort of place.
Appropriately named as one of the best steakhouses in America, if not the very best of all, a little discussed aspect of the Carnevino program remains Chef Brisson’s time in Italy learning to make pastas and although located in an Italian-themed hotel with no lack for noodles it was with this idea in mind that dinner was served at the far end of David “Coop” Cooper’s bar, the Vegas native perhaps the city’s best bartender to bend an ear as he has seemingly “seen it all.”
Starting the night off early, a 5:30pm arrival showing the room nearly empty though every dining room seat was filled with folks fighting for a spot at the bar by 7 o’clock, dinner began with an unnamed seasonal cocktail bright with aromatics of elderflower and light sweetness before jumping right into a butter lettuce salad that fares far better than the average “wedge” as a result of ingredients from Intuitive Forager Kerry Clasby treated with the respect they deserve, the greens providing an elegant nest for fresh shaved vegetables including bitter radishes that helped to mellow a bright citrus vinaigrette.
Always reimagining the pasta section of the menu, though several staples remain, Spring has brought several new sauces and fillings to previous ideas, but newly launching a classic Italian Crespelle that eats something like a French crepe with slightly more elasticity there are few better dishes in the city than this one rolled around large chunks of Dungeness Crab and creamy ricotta plus asparagus tips, the flavor of fresh herbs perfuming the palate atop the sweet and briny notes.
Happy to mop up residual sauces with rolls of ciabatta, though the lardo and butter certainly did not get ignored, two more demi-plates of pasta each sang the season’s praises with tender potato dumplings simple yet elegant beneath mint pesto with fresh shucked peas while the artichoke agnolotti were absolutely exquisite, each tender pocket bursting with creamy filling while crumbles of briny ricotta salata proved an elegant dance partner for the artichoke’s crispy leaves.
Having never ordered a fish at Carnevino it was on the Chef’s suggestion that grilled Striped Bass came out next, and with crispy skin paired to chunky mint pea pesto with a charred lemon and radish the meaty filet was as good as bass will ever be, especially when paired to a beautiful side dish of gently sautéed ramps.
Never particularly wowed by Carnevino’s desserts, thrice limited due to the late nature and heft of prior meals, Pastry Chef Ashley Costa has truly spread her wings with the new season’s ingredients and although some may still veer towards the tiramisu or chocolate-peanut butter tart the far better bet is to investigate lighter options as the Bomboloni are perfect little puffs that pair beautifully with fruit compote and crema while the Strawberry Crespelle rivals its savory sister in terms of complexity as well as texture, the Coconut Tart perhaps Las Vegas’ best new seasonal dessert as it not only avoids the trap of tasting “Hawaiian Tropics” artificial but actually eschews sweetness altogether with nothing more that pudding-thick Coconut Cream on an all-butter crust with fresh berries and a quenelle of sorbet of bright green kiwi.
FIVE STARS: Far more than a meat market ever since opening, *The* steakhouse in a city where it seems like hundreds can be found, Spring 2016 shows Chefs Brisson and Costa each executing at a level even higher than ever, a feat ever more impressive considering the constant push from other casinos to slash ingredient prices in order to improve profit margins and a strong testament to why Carnevino continues to generate acclaim from diners around the world.
RECOMMENDED: Dungeness Crab Crespelle, Artichoke Agnolotti, Coconut Tart, trusting Coop make you anything you want.
AVOID: Showing up at peak times without reservations as it is likely to land you a seat in the lobby, the bar itself often reserved along with the other three dining rooms.
TIP: Lunch in the Tavern remains an underdiscussed gem in terms of Las Vegas dining, the menu a bit more limited but the quality no less impressive.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://carnevino.com/
