MeLange
Breakfast Foie Gras – Seared Foie Gras, French Toast, Coffee Syrup, Orange Jam
Crispy Duck Spring Rolls – Chinese 5 Spice, Apricot Sauce
Dessert Foie Gras – Foie Gras Crème Brulee, Rose Wine Sorbet, Chocolate Crisps
Duck Brie Crepes – Shredded Duck, Brie, Currants, Almonds, Brandy Cream Sauce
Bread Pudding – Milk Chocolate, Toasted Walnuts, Butterscotch Crème Anglaise
Owned by Lan Bradeen and likely the most avant-garde kitchen in the city of Sarasota, it was for Tuesday dinner that a table for two was booked at MeLange on Main Street, the reservation proving mostly unnecessary as this was the only table inhabited from opening until nearly eight o’clock in the evening, that fact alone potentially a commentary on how the “exploration of food, art & drink” is doing.
Described as “eclectic” and “casually elegant” by locals, the food certainly not the sort found amidst the septuagenarian Early-Bird sprawl, a look at reviews dating to 2009 will show that Chef Bradeen’s concept has undoubtedly evolved from previous eponymous environs and although the menu implements modernist techniques and several interesting ingredients the execution still seems to be a work in progress, the music at times downright annoying while bored servers lack any semblance of “fine dining” education – the younger African American lady audibly heard discussing her drunken weekend escapades while her taller, presumable “boss” could not even do diners the service of describing the constituents of each plate.
The sort of place that politely “declines substitutions,” but immediately goes back on its word when two middle-aged folk walk in at 7:45 requesting a “regular” grilled cheese and salad with dressing on the side, MeLange’s Spring menu nonetheless aspires to achieve bigger things by listing local farmers and opting to comprise an order with three “petite explorations” plus a “snack” and dessert the items served actually speak to Chefs operating with good product and an ample skill set.
Not seeing Chef Lan on site, a Sous intermittently witnessed at work in the open kitchen, the water at MeLange is much like that throughout East Florida in that lemon is necessary to make the hardness palatable and beginning with a duo of “Breakfast” Foie Gras plus Crispy Duck Spring Rolls the kitchen’s predilection for sweetness was notable as both heavy meats sang with citrus, the seared liver well cleaned and rendered to caramelization while the shredded duck was complimented instead of overwhelmed by 5-Spice.
Passing on Sweetbreads and large plates in order to explore a wider range of items, course two again served fowl in double, the “Dessert” Foie Gras actually far less sugary than the one before it as a chilled pudding in an oversized soup spoon while the “Duck Brie Crepes” were a picture-perfect pairing of heavy flavors with just enough levity lent by nuts and dried currants.
Admittedly a bit full, a long day with four prior stops already past, desserts at MeLange follow the Asian-fusion idea not particularly congruent with the bizarre modern artwork, $9 Bread Pudding served as a slightly-dry cylinder with too much bitterness from the toasted walnuts and not enough Butterscotch.
http://melangesarasota.com/
