Comme Chez Soi
Mille Feuille of Salmon and Lemon Cream, Crispy of Chorizo and Piquillo Peppers
Cannelloni of Mackerel, Lobster Vinagrette /Mixed Vegetables, Avocado Cromesquis, Salsify / Eel, Fresh Herbs, Emulsion of Wild Garlic
Pain aux Cereals, Sourdough, Brioche with Beurre AOC Normandy
Grilled Young Rabbit Medallions with light Sainte-Maure de Touraine Cream, Granny Smith Apples, Cucumber, Tarragon, Quinoa
Cod Fish, Squid, Fennel with Star Anise, Spanish Pepper, Lemon Verbena
Breast of Young Pigeon from Poitou with Leg on Crispy Vegetable Gratin, Smoked Curry, Cubed Pepper, Green Asparagus, Tarragon, Sherry Vinegar
Veal’s Sweetbread in Bread Crust, Morels, White Asparagus from Mechelen, Mustard Seeds
Glazed Achel Blue Cheese with Caramelized Apple, Old Porto Coulis, Gingerbread
Small stuffed Jaconde with Raspberry and Basil, Samba Tea Granitas, Mango Espuma, Passion Fruit
Chocolate Belconlade Vietnam 74% Biscuit with Marmalade, Wild Strawberry Cream, Yogurt Sorbet, Olive Oil
Tart Citron, Green Strawberry Macaron, 80% Chocolate with Coffee, White Chocolate Caramel Truffle
A grande dame of Belgian dining, the small room at Place Rouppe 23 once holding three Michelin Stars and currently in possession of two, Comme Chez Soi dates to the year 1936 and still a family-run operation today with Chef Lionel Rigolet a grandson-in-law to original owner Georges Cuvelier the passion to continually update is commendable, though certain dogmas of fine-dining undoubtedly remain.
Located in central Brussels, a rarity amongst the city’s best places to dine, entry to Comme Chez Soi sees guests greeted by several stern faces and with the average diner’s age topping sixty the room’s Art Nouveau design carries an air of pomp and circumstance, art-glass reflected off mirrors above big bouquets of flowers while a large window offers a view of the action behind the scenes.Following a practice of tasting menu-only weekends, a shorter version of the degustation available at a slightly lower price, the pacing at Comme Chez Soi follows a leisurely model embraced by most of the regions haute-cuisine and with the seven courses plus extras stretching nearly four-hours the delays are sometimes greater than forty minutes, perhaps not ideal for solo diners though the staff did do their best in offering a book on the region as well as several magazines to read.
Somewhat frustrated that no a la carte additions were available, just a few choices to be made for course one and course three, the longer degustation with warm cheese supplement was ordered after some deliberation, jacket shed shortly after five clever canapes as air circulates poorly in the room soon filled to capacity, the trio of breads a strong effort with the pain aux cereal particularly impressive when gilded with salted butter still wet from Normandy.
Unapologetically stiff, neither server nor Maitre ‘D ever once seen cracking a smile, the degustation officially began with room-temperature rounds of young rabbit with nuttiness enhanced by light grilling amidst light cheese, cucumbers and apples, the following plate of Cod and slightly overcooked Squid sauced tableside with top-notes of licorice shining amidst smooth citrus and a touch of heat.
Small in portions but bold in flavors, even opening bites quite rich while the bread basket proves tough to ignore, course three served two rosy slices of Pigeon breast along with vegetables and a sidecar of crispy leg atop Vegetable Gratin, the Green Asparagus soon to prove a signature of nearly every menu in the region while a small segment of Sweetbread beneath a crispy top-hat rounded out the savories with a white stalk from Mechelen along topped with Morels, cream and Mustard seeds.
Graciously allowing me a single portion of warm Blue Cheese, the menu suggesting a price of €14/pp with a minimal order of two, suffice it to say that the warm puddle is worthy the splurge with caramelized apples, Port and flavors of Speculoos, a clever two-part pre-dessert well conceptualized but unfortunately overwhelmed by Mangoes and Passion Fruit, the follow-up far more impressive with Dark Chocolate Ganache lightly accented by Strawberries with flavors melded by Olive Oil and tangy yogurt ice cream.
At this point past 23h00, Jetlag finally setting in after nearly 34 hours awake or in the air, a quartet of mignardises arrived with another long delay preceding the bill’s presentation, a total of just about $250 US including 1L of water on par with most American restaurants carrying similar accolades and overall a worthwhile experience though certainly not a “destination” meal like others in the area earning two or more Red Guide Stars.
www.commechezsoi.be