Chef Series 5 at Elements with Jon VanHusen
Grilled Asparagus with aged Sartori Parmesan, Olive Oil Caviar, Barrel Aged Sherry Vinegar, Poached Egg
Chicken Liver Mousse with Grilled Pita, Sea Salt, Cornichons
Roasted Hatch Chili and Bacon Johnny Cakes with Butter Poached Lobster, Beet Chips, Foie Gras Confit, Salad of Asian Pear and Jicama
Seared Duck Breast with Carrot Ginger Broth and Roasted Root Vegetables
Macadamia Nut Blondie with Malted Vanilla Milkshake
Stepping forward in the setting of a nearly cancelled event, the sense of “community” in Las Vegas’ food culture and integrity of other local Chefs questioned by a man who has admittedly achieved something admirable by making his own rules, Jon Vanhusen may not be a name on the radar of many local critics or ‘influencers,’ but judging from two meals plus his contributions to our Potluck there is no doubt of the young man’s passion and commitment to the scene.
Having originally met VanHusen when invited in to Elements, ironically similar to the manner in which our self-interested prior host had first chosen to showcase his food, suffice it to say that Chef Jon currently has his work cut out for him in reinventing a restaurant long seen as lacking an identity, the locals from across the street limited in number but seemingly happy to indulge in food falling under the “modern American“ umbrella and completely lacking in creativity or flare.
Asking the Chef to craft a tasting menu for ten, new faces and old gathered at the table, it was with one Sous and a lone waitress that the dinner took place and creating every plate for the first time the results were by-and-by quite impressive, the lone flaw largely as relates to plating an opening Asparagus salad on slate with a poached egg in a porcelain cup, the question as to what purpose it served still undetermined as was how to use it since the texture made it unnecessary as a dip while the slate would have created quite a mess if used as a sauce.
Stepping up with course two, the creamy mousse of Chicken Liver and butter lacking any sign of minerality and instead presenting like a true “Foie Blonde” on par with the likes of Michel Richard or Daniel Boulud, course three saw VanHusen reach for Hatch Chilies and Bacon to further enrich his famous Cornbread by way of a stack of Johnny Cakes, the Butter Poached Lobster a bit difficult to extract from the shell without proper silverware but the flavor rich and succulent alongside confit Duck Liver beneath an Asian Pear and Jicama Slaw.
Taking time with pacing, the meal lasting just over two hours with much conversation had as music turned down from last visit played overhead, savories wrapped by way of gently Seared Duck Breast with Root Vegetables in textures atop a splash of Carrot and Ginger Pan Sauce, the Macadamia Nut Blondie and Malted Vanilla Milkshake making for a delicious one-two combination of mellow flavors, though a previous visit would show that the Chef is certainly capable of doing much bolder sweet stuff.
FOUR STARS: For an impromptu sort of thing, stepping up to fill big shoes, Jon and his small team put together a great meal that only lacked in a missing narrative and small plating issues, the restaurant still in need of some work if it wants to reengage a community beyond its current clientele but a Chef that could undoubtedly do so if given creative license and marketed reasonably well.
RECOMMENDED: Chicken Liver Mousse was Best in Town and the Duck was textbook.
AVOID: Still not sure on that poached egg, but having just been in Brussels for a week I’m sad to say that most of America’s Asparagus seems like a cruel joke.
TIP: Elements new menu is promised soon, stay tuned.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.elementscasualdining.com
