The Honey Paw
Fry Bread and Uni Butter
Zucchini and Tofu Fritters with Lemon Aioli
Lobster Tartine – Lobster & Scallop Mousse, Lemon Emulsion, Sunchoke, Radish, Hijiki
Lobster Wontons – Miso Dashi, Confit Mushrooms, Chili Oil
Roast Pork & Crab Mee Goreng – Wok Fried Yellow Noodle, Maine Peekytoe, Bok Choy, Chili Crab Sambal
Country Ham & Smoked Scallop Congee – Carolina Gold Rice Grits, Green Pea, Wild Bay Butter, Pickled Ramp, Soft Poached Egg
Korean Fried Chicken – Skillet Coconut Corn Bread, Coconut Butter, Zucchini Kimchi, Potato Salad
Strawberry Cake – Earl Grey Buttercream, Blueberry Jam, Candied Walnuts
Caramelized Honey Soft Serve – Chocolate Shell, Honeycomb
Stop one in a trio of connected restaurants that include Eventide Oyster Company and Hugo’s Restaurant, Sunday dinner took place at The Honey Paw, and although the rest of the restaurant’s group proved well deserving of the worldwide recognition that has helped make Portland a culinary destination their newest spot needs a whole lot of work before anyone will mistake it as on that same level.
No doubt a trendy spot, the Sunday Ramen and F-bomb laden Hip-Hop records just scratching the surface of issues that include uncomfortable communal seating, exceedingly warm temperatures thanks to windows facing the setting sun and servers that mumble their way through the evening as though they do not wish to be there, The Honey Paw takes an almost David Chang-esque approach to making diners feel as though their money is the only thing that matters, or at least that it is more important than any sort of creature comforts.
Again referencing Chang by suggesting a menu of upscale Asian-inspired share-plates, the diversity actually quite impressive with portions that trend large for their price, it was after settling best as possible into a windowside strip of blonde wood and backless barstools that the meal got started, a starter of delicate Indian Fry-Bread arriving warm with sliced peppers and briny butter with Zucchini Fritters hot on its heels with a smooth core of tofu that paired well to creamy citrus aioli.
Literally sharing its kitchen with Eventide, the latter well-known for a lobster roll that some call the State’s best, it seemed safe to assume crustaceans would be a well-advised addition to the evening, the Lobster Tartine presented something like Avocado toast with a crisp base topped in chunks of Lobster as well as Scallop Mousse amidst vegetable textures, the Wontons in Dashi well complimented by tender mushrooms and light chili oil while Wok Fried Noodles with Roast Pork and Peekytoe Crab meat came across far too salty and also a bit oily.
Happy to see Congee on the menu, The Honey Paw’s version using buttery grits, a poached egg, pork and scallops the closest competitor to Jordan Kahn’s Uni Porridge at Red Medicine tasted to date, the kitchen continued to shine by way of a plate of double-fried Korean Spiced Chicken that comes in half or full portions with sides including fermented vegetables and potato salad, plus some truly exemplary coconut-butter cornbread.
Limiting desserts to a few Sundaes plus a daily wedge of Cake those looking for a sweet sendoff will be happy to know that regardless of which is chosen the result is far more impressive than menu suggestions might suggest, the Strawberry Cake with tea-infused buttercream and blueberry jam as light as angel food and perfect for summer while the Caramelized Honey Soft Serve drizzled in Dark Chocolate with crunchy Honeycomb will almost make the temperature, volume and overall discomfort worth it.
www.thehoneypaw.com
