Paradise India
Mango Lassi
Pappadum – Tamarind and Mint Chutney
Reshmi Kabab
Chicken 65
Tandoori Lamb Chops
Pav Bhaji – Fried Onions in Gram Flour Batter
Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Tikka Masala, Chicken Korma, Raita, Saffron Rice, Garlic Naan
Omelet Roti
Rasmalai, Gulab Jamun, Sevya
Opened around two months ago in a large corner-space at 8125 West Sahara, Paradise India may seem at first like every similar concept to arrive in areas further East in recent years, but a closer look at the restaurant from William Bathini speaks of a softer, more nuanced side of Indian cuisine that may be just the sort of thing prone to delight fussy West Siders.
Open for both lunch and dinner, the former a bargain Buffet that is claimed to be one of the largest around, Chef Bathini speaks proudly of his heritage when describing an upbringing in one of his country’s more traditional States, and having now spent some time in Washington DC furthering his skills in close proximity to some of America’s best Indian Fine Dining establishments he hopes to now bring a piece of his home to the city of Las Vegas.
Inspired by tradition and taking steps to preserve the tastes of his homeland with dynamic spicing replacing the aggressive salting and heat that many associate with lesser restaurants, a quick look at Paradise India’s menu speaks volumes by way of its relative brevity, the choices divided into omnivorous or meatless options with plenty to choose from, but not so much as to seem as if they are just shooting with buckshot or trying too hard to please.
Ranging from Tandoori and Curry to Biryani with a small Indo-Chinese section plus a few esoteric items speaking to regional influence, appetizers at Paradise range $5-10 and although the sampling was somewhat limited it is safe to say that fans of Poultry are likely to be happy whether they choose the elegant Reshmi Kabab that sees tender Chicken breast wrapped around a mild Ginger and Onion filling or the more robust “Chicken 65” that eats something like a hand-breaded nugget upgraded by Turmeric, Cumin, Garlic and Red Chilies.
Having already gained praise for the Lamb Chops, a clay oven preparation that presents four bones full of meat on sizzling skillet with onions and peppers for $25, suffice it to say that as good as these are Vegetarians will not feel left out since the traditional Pav Bhaji may be even better as the spicy Onion stew is presented with griddled bread in sizable portion that is as delicious as it is hearty.
Acknowledging the need to please American palates, but not willing to compromise tradition by straying from the path, Bathini’s Tandoori Chicken offers tender meat just barely clinging to the bones that it is served with, and although Tikka Masala and Korma are both offered elsewhere the texture of Paradise India’s base comes across more subtle and creamy, the choice of whether to use Rice or Bread left to the diner, though those interested in something different are strongly encouraged to try the fluffy Omelet Roti that finds favorable comparison to a thin Spanish Torta.
Continuing the traditional approach with desserts, even the sold-out Bread Pudding apparently common in India due to ancient Persian influence, Gulab Jamun proved a bit too ‘gummy’ compared to previous experiences with the small Donuts in Honey while the Rasmalai and Sevya were each striking in their subtlety, the latter placing long-grain Rice in the context of a Pudding while the former was almost savory with fresh Paneer soaked in Cream, Fruit plus Nuts and a texture somewhere between Greek Yogurt and Cheesecake.
FOUR STARS: Taking an approach that neither Casinos nor Off-Strip Restaurants seem ready to embrace, the idea of upscale Indian cuisine focused on authenticity rather than the ‘American’ expectation that seems to embrace tongue tingling heat and too much salt, Paradise India has started on good footing that should only improve as the recipes become fine-tuned and the word spreads.
RECOMMENDED: Pav Bhaji, Omelet Roti, Chicken 65, Rasmalai.
AVOID: Gulab Jamun had an almost rubbery texture compared to those seen prior, otherwise the only issue presented was a few menu items being Sold-Out and Indian Pop Music that needs to be turned down in order to better fit the ambiance created by a good looking room and elegant plating.
TIP: The $9.99 Lunch Buffet is offered seven days a week for those not yet ready to commit to the dinner menu.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.paradiseindia1.com/
