Alden & Harlow
Gracenote Coffee Roasters Coffee
Pickled Corn Pancakes – Strawberries, Buttermilk, Crema, Mint
Cinnamon Roll with Maple Icing
Black & Blueberry Buckle with Crème Fraiche
Croissant Pain Perdu – Cherry Preserves, White Chocolate, Almond Butter
Hickory Smoked Pigs’ Tails – Maple Glazed, Soft Poached Egg, Cheese Crisps, Grits
Present on several Best New Restaurant lists both local and nationwide, Cambridge’s Alden & Harlow was selected for Saturday brunch largely based on a menu that seems to fly in the face of conformity almost for the sake of proving that the “New American” movement need not be so stagnant, the concept at times hitting a homerun by way of experimentation while other compositions seem to be trying too hard to be creative.
Located at 40 Brattle Street, an underground space that expands much further than one would guess from the exterior, Alden & Harlow opened in 2014 and under the toque of Chef Michael Scelfo has gained critical acclaim almost from the beginning by taking a modern approach to locally sourced ingredients while also featuring one of the most innovated Bar programs in the area by barrel aging several options while also offering a good mix of novelties as well as the classics.
Best described as shabby chic in design, several odd references to Drugs perhaps lost on those unfamiliar with the area or space, it was just after the 10:30am opening that seats were offered at a far back banquet, the music overhead taking the now-trendy route of channeling classics from the 50s and 60s while the menu presented was anything but expected, the five items ordered all delivered almost simultaneously in a matter of moments.
Locally sourcing as much as possible, Coffee from Gracenote refilled repeatedly by a server who was not particularly in-tune with the menu, though efficient and pleasant enough, dining at Alden & Harlow began with fluffy Cornmeal Pancakes lightly tinged in acid and Buttermilk atop a lightly sweetened Cream plus Strawberries, the follow-up Buckle taking a similar route in terms of flavor profile as bursting Berries densely pocketed piping-hot cast iron with a stiff dollop of Crème Fraiche slowly melting down into a buttery Streusel top.
Intentionally veering sweet, though savory selections also beckon, further tastes entailed a crisp yet flexible curl of Cinnamon Brioche sitting in a pool of caramelized Butter beneath a mountain of Maple Icing, the ‘Pain Perdu’ unfortunately falling short in the flavor department by eschewing any sort of sweetness in the custard while Hickory smoked Pigs’ Tails actually proved to be the highlight of the morning with the shredded meat fully imbuing the grits with smoke and sweetness and a stick-to-the-ribs richness fortified by the poached Egg.
http://aldenharlow.com/